In May of 2006 I thought it might be fun to try and build, rather than buy, a turntable. The concept was as follows; Triangular plinth to accommodate 3 arms, each designed along different mechanical principles. Suspension, Pointed rather than sprung, with mechanical grounding of all components via large brass tiptoes. A platter using vacuum hold down rather than a center weight and ring clamp. Belt drive via 3 multi motor pods. Use of an epoxy/ lead matrix, where ever possible, to help dampen resonances. Implementation of an anti vibration device such as produced by Halcyonics, Vibraplane or Minus K Technologies. Last of all, build a dedicated, welded, tubular steel stand that would be filled with a lead shot / elastomeric material to reduce resonances. This stand would house the table, 3 electronic motor speed controllers, 3 phono head amps for 3 moving coil cartridges, and a high quality stereo pre amp to act as a switching device among the 3 cartridges. The pre amp would need balanced outputs so that I could locate the table anywhere within the listening room. The table is about 2 months from completion. The above photo, taken just before Christmas, shows most, but not all the design elements in place. This photo essay, along with brief descriptions of each step, may be of interest to anyone who ever deliberated the merits of the various table designs out there before making a final choice.
DIY MK 1 Plinth Pattern
Since the triangular pedestal is the heart of the table, a pattern will be required in order to laminate the fiberglass mold into which the epoxy matrix will be poured. Shown is the MDF sheets being glued together from which the pattern will be fabricated. The dimensional stability and easy machinability of MDF makes this the material of choice. Note the table bearing well machined into the top 3 layers of MDF prior to gluing up step. The well side walls are tapered with a 3 % angle in order to facilitate demolding of the final part from the fiberglass mold.
DIY MK 1 Pattern Cut
The pattern shown includes 3
DIY MK 1 Texture Added
The accurate final assembly of the pods to the center pattern is accomplished by using biscuit joints and polyurethane glue. The black panels shown are the surfaces that have been laminated with slate textured, high pressure laminate.The remaining surfaces will be high gloss black. The contrast will not only be more attractive, but offer a more dimensional surface on which to mount the arms and levelers
DIY MK 1 Pattern Glue Up
Assembly of the 4 pattern pieces requires tight, accurate clamping. The irregular shape means typical clamps may not fit the bill. A band clamp on the bottom and pinch dogs on the top keep the parts from shifting when the pressure is applied.
DIY MK 1 Pattern Coating Applied
After the clamps are removed, a decorative chamfer is machined around the top perimeter of the pattern. After the slate surfaces are masked, the pattern is sprayed with a polyester pattern coating. When the coating cures, the pattern can be sanded and polished prior to the production of the fiberglass mold.
DIY MK 1 Lets Start Building A Mold
The finished pattern is mounted to a mold plate, prepared with multiple coats of mold release wax, then sprayed with a poly vinyl alcohol film forming barrier coat. The dry PVA film can be compared to sheet of saran wrap that will prevent any bond between the pattern an the mold surface about to be applied over the pattern.
DIY MK 1 Surface Coat Applied First
Shown is the application of the metal filled surface being sprayed over the pattern. The surface coat will generate a mirror of surface of the pattern that will become the performance surface of the production mold. This surface coat is a 2 part, catalyzed material, as compared to an air dry, solvent based paint. Once cured, it will be impervious to the chemical attack generated when the final production pedestal is cast.
DIY MK 1 Fiberglass Comes Next
Laminating fiberglass re-enforcemint will add strength and bulk to the thin layer of surface coat that has been sprayed over the pattern. Multiple layers, that add up to 1/4 inch in thickness, will be required before we can proceed to the next step. The dark areas around the corners and edges come from the paste made from ground glass, calcium carbonate and cotton flock that was brushed on prior to the first layer of fiberglass. It will eliminate any small air pockets that may result from the difficulty in getting stiff glass fibers to conform to sharp inside and outside corners.
DIY MK 1 Rigidize The Laminate
Even though a 1'4 inch laminate of fiberglass has a great degree of strength, it must have a substrate of some thickness to maintain rigidity and dimensional stability. Panels of MDF are bonded to the flat surfaces in order to accomplish the desired result. Another layer of fiberglass will go over the MDF panels to effect a sandwich type of construction that will guarantee dimensional stability for years to come. A box will then be bonded to the back of the laminate to facilitate easy handling.
DIY MK 1 Showtime!
It's time to demold the pattern from the fiberglass mold. Shown at the top of the picture is the light gray pattern, with the darker gray fiberglass mold in the lower part of the picture.
DIY MK 1 Making The Plinth
A few days later the mold has been sanded, polished and waxed. It's now ready to produce a final part. It will take some engineering to determine the size and shape of the aluminum plinth, along with the arm boards needed to accommodate the various tone arms and leveling vials. Because of these factors, it would be a good idea to laminate a trial horse off the mold to be used for experimentation. This photo shows the trial lamination, in black at the right, being demolded from the production mold,at the left, in light gray. This part is just a 1/4 inch thick fiberglass shell without any additional re-enforcement.
DIY MK 1 Trim Out Time
Trimming out a fiberglass part is never a fun job, but it doesn't take that long and it only itches for a little while.
DIY MK 1 The Finished Plinth
With 2000 grit sandpaper and a little polishing , and it's as shiny as new money.
DIY MK 1 Plinth Plate
A mock up of the aluminum plinth plate, done in MDF makes it easy and inexpensive to work out the details before machining it in Aluminum.
DIY MK 1 Plinth Plate Mock Up
Angles and measurements are accurately transferred to the MDF pattern, then cut to size.
DIY MK 1 Progress Check.
With the vacuum platter on top, and the plinth plate on the bottom, things are taking shape. A few changes are made on the thickness and overall dimensions of the plinth plate, in order to maintain good proportions, and it's time for the next step.
DIY MK 1 Tip Toe Check
Tip toes are mocked up in steel. Final parts to be in brass, but a thinner jam nut in brass is a must.
Dynavector DV 507 MK 11
A Dynavector DV 507 MK II is shown ,sans head shell and counter weight, positioned on the first of three pods that each will accept a different type of tone arm.
Kuzma Air Line
The Kuzma Air Line, to be mounted at the rear of the pedestal, will make an impressive contribution, not only to the performance but to the overall looks of the project.
Tri Plainer Mk V11
My intention in choosing arms was to utilize 3 very different arm types.The Tri Plainer Mk VII, mounted on the third pod of the table, will complement the other 2 choices.
VPI Industries HRX Drive
The drive unit of choice is the VPI HRX twin motor drive. Utilizing a 15 lb stainless steel flywheel, the added mass will go a long way to maximize the speed stability of the table.
VPI Industries SDS Controller
The VPI SDS electronic controller was the natural choice for the HRX motor drive. 3 separate SDS controllers will power the 3 HRX motor drive units powering the platter.
DIY MK 1 Final Dimension Check
Shown is the pedestal with the plinth, platter and all 3 arms positioned correctly with respect to
DIY MK 1 CNC Time
The dimensions and angles of the mdf mock up of the plinth plate are transferred to a CNC machining center where the a 1- 1/2 inch thick aluminum slab is cut to the same dimensions, and the 1-1/2 fine threads are tapped to accept the tip toes.
DIY MK 1 Arm boards next
A 3/4 inch thick aluminum arm board will be used to mount the various arms to the top of the pedestal. Note the inset vial level that will be used to continuously monitor the levelness of the table. A mock up tells me if my dimensions are correct before I proceed in aluminum.
DIY MK 1 Aluminum Arm Board
The arm boards have been cut from 3/4 inch aluminum and the underside cored out removing almost 50 % of the aluminum. This cored area will then be filled in with a lead shot/ urethane elastomeric matrix that will dampen the resonance that might occur in a solid aluminum arm board.
DIY MK 1 Final Machining- Arm Board
Additional machining on the top side includes a hole to access the top of the tip toe. Here a long T handle allen wrench can be inserted, fitting into the top of the tip toe, for easy adjustment of the pedestal height.
DIY MK 1 Arm Boards, Final Location
Accurate location of the 4 mounting holes for the arm boards in the top of the plinth are laid out, along with the other holes for the arm cables, tip toe adjustment holes etc.
DIY MK 1 Secondary Fittings Installed
Aluminum bars to accept the 10-32 threads for mounting of the arm boards , along with various pvc fittings to act as conduits for arm cables and tip toe adjustment, are epoxied in place.
DIY MK 1 Aluminum Motor Bases
2 inch thick aluminum billet has been machined out to act as a bases for each of the 3 drive units. The drive units will be firmly bolted to these bases with a thin sheet of Isodamp in between for good contact. The chamfered edge has been maintained for continuity of the overall appearance of the unit.
DIY MK 1 Motor Bases- Underside
As with the aluminum arm boards, the underside of the motor bases has been heavily cored out. This will then be filled with the same lead/ elastomeric matrix as used in the arm board. 3 holes are visible for the 1-1/2 dia threaded tip toes that will level and mechanically ground each motor drive unit.
DIY MK 1 Threads And Holes
Threads for mounting the arm boards are tapped into the pedestal prior to it being filled with an epoxy / lead matrix. The holes for the signal cables and tip toe access are also drilled.
DIY MK 1 Final Plinth Polishing
Final 2000 grit sanding and polishing of the plinth is done now. The next step will be to cast approximately 240 lbs of lead and epoxy fill into the underside. After that step it will be too heavy to handle for anything other than the final mounting on the aluminum plinth.
I favor the desigh of the Kuzma Air Line and have a My Sonic Labs Eminent for one Air Line and a Koetsu Platinum Signature Jade for the other Air Line. The Dynavedtor DV 507 Mk II will be fitted with both XV 1s stereo and mono cartridges via plug in head shells. I've yet to hear any of the arms or cartridges as all are still in boxes, but based on what I've read, I'm looking forward to the sound of the Koetsu - Air Line combo, especially on classical music.
The project began almost three years ago and has gone through a few changes. I hope to have it up and running by Christmas. I replaced the Tri Plainer with a second Kuzma Air line, both are still in the box as the table has yet to be assembled but all the parts are finished.
Two months ago I decided to increase the mass of the platter. I looked into a one inch lead slab I could machine and bond between the sub platter and the vacuum disc. Lead that thick is hard to find and is available only as dead soft lead which is hard to machine. The price I got was exorbitant so I looked into casting a platter.
I found a company that casts lead with 3% Antimony that increases the hardness of lead and makes machining easier.
I welded up a metal mold and sent it out to be poured with 80 lbs of lead. It's been machined and sent off to be bonded between the sub platter and vacuum disc and sealed with an epoxy coating. I hope to have it back soon so I can begin the assembly ot the table.
Since I increased the height of the platter by one inch it was necessary to raise the three armboards up with one inch brass risers.
Hopefully, there will be no more changes that will delay the compleation of the project.
There are always technical professionals that design breakthrough products that utilize state of the art thinking. However, at the same time there are those who have a level of passion that they too, come up with breath taking products. The audio community has a balanced mix of both. The final judgement of their efforts is always determined by their bank accounts. If enough of us realize the fruits of their efforts by opening our checkbooks and buy their ideas, we can perpetuate their drive to produce new and upgraded products. If the creek don't rise, they can be a success.
This TT is but a collection of tried and true axioms in design, built by a person who would rather spend any amount of money to validate an idea rather than buy the best out there that someone else built. How it will sound is about to be evaluated. While I'll be playing records on it for the first time, I'll be thinking of the next project. The saying, " The journey is more fun than the destination," certainly applies to me.
It sounds as though you may have an inkling to follow a similar path.
My company builds polyester tooling for the cast polymer industry, so I've had what I needed to convert my ideas on the TT project to reality. How it will sound is yet to be determined.
It has been 2 years, almost to the month, since I started the project. All the parts are here and are waiting to be assembled. I can't believe how many times I've changed one thing or another. It all translated to a delay in time and an increase in cost. Now I know why high end TTs cost what they do.
If you can be a bit more specific on what your question is regarding the mix for the molds, I'll be happy to help if I can.
I thank you for your response and comment on the project. It's become one of those things that keeps growing in scope. Whenever I find another avenue to explore I take it, especially if I feel that it will it will affirm the thoughts behind my TT project.
A while back, "Grooves" posted regarding the use of an accelerometer to measure the vibrations inherent in turntables and stands. It sounded as though it was the logical way to eliminate Subjective opinions as to how vibrations affect the way a TT / stand sounds. Thanks to Grooves I'll measure what is going on as I assemble and fine tune the TT as I assemble it.
Listening to music is the end result of our hobby, but putting our own personal tweak on the gear is what keeps us happy to hear the music better than everyone else.<>*^
You and Yildiray must have been on the same wavelength. Your reply gives me an opportunity to express a view that might seem contradictory to the projects I've undertaken and posted on Audiogon.
There are many turntables that use inverted bearings. I may be wrong, but I know of only SOTA that implimented that design 20 years or so ago. If you assume all inverted bearings do a good enough job to SELL, the difference among them could be ; motors, drive belt, isolation, sprung or pointed design, one or four beers, etc.
I dare say that if I took the table bearing from 20 year old SOTA STAR, replaced the bearing and saphire bearing plate, I'm not sure I could hear the difference between it and the new SOTS stuff I'm using. I'd like to think I would, but, if my life depended on the decision ??? Boy , I just opened myself up for criticism.
I shall make a comparison of audiophiles at both ends of the spectrum. --- EXCUSE ME ALBERT. At one end of the spectrum, you have a person that educated his ears to what sound best, over many years. It takes time, discreation, good judgement, money and a patient wife-- partner.
After many decades, he knows what sounds right to him and, with an open mind, will listen to the other side. Now let's go to the other extreme.
About the same age as Albert, a few years older, an audiophile always who wanted the best, but traveled a different road. My business didn't include audio so I needed to learn on my off time and never had much. The mantra of "Bigger Is Better" hopefully offsets the lack of experience that comes with time. If it costs more, weighs more, looks better, sells better, is written up more--- it must be good, maybe not.
When you have less time to hear for yourself, you make educated, or uneducated choices. That's me. I have no reason to think I'll hate the sound I'll hear. After all , it's the fruit of my labors.
The only rules that apply to what your choices are can be summed up -- you're the only one that counts.
"Enjoy The Music." Raul, you should've copywrighted the phrase.
Thanks for the response and kind words. In answer to your questions---
My original intention was to use a 1 1'4 inch thick platter of 304 non magnetic stainless steel. I still have the 13 inch square slab I bought almost 18 months ago when I started the project. 3 motor drive pods, each containing 3 Hurst 300 rpm PA motors, driving a 10 lb stainless steel flywheel. I still have the 9 Hurst motors I bought, now unused, just sitting on a shelf. If anyone needs them, let me know.
A long time friend of mine owned a top shelf machine shop with cnc machines capable of turning the platter and flywheels. One day he just up and sold his company to a bean counter with money and no skill or ability to run a shop, my plans had to change.
20 years ago I purchased a SOTA Star- vacuum from Robert Becker at a CES show. Just 2 years ago I bought a Sota Millennia from Kirk and Donna Bodinet at the 2005 CES, it is still in the boxes, unused. I always enjoyed the performance of the Sota tables, so the choice was an easy one. The Bodinets sent me the platter, inverted bearing, and vacuum system as supplied on my Millennia. Since I had a stainless slab for a platter, I asked if they could have their machinist make one for me and if their inverted bearing would handle the 75 lb platter weight. David Fletcher, the designer of the original Sota table design still consults for SOTA, so after checking with him, I was told the bearing would properly handle a platter weight up to 100 lbs. I would have to wait for another batch of platters to be run before I could get one. That was about 14 months ago. I was sure this project would be done in about 6 months, so I bought the standard SOTA platter.
It will be only another few months when an order for another batch of platters will be placed. I'll get my stainless slab machined then and have an extra new platter on the shelf.
Regarding the motor drives; The VPI Hrx drive uses 2 Hurst - 300 rpm - PA motors and a 15 lb stainless flywheel, I was rescued!! I ordered 3 HRX drives and 3 SDS controllers for a lot less than the cost of maching my original motor drives. I plan on using 20 # test, WOVEN Spyder wire, for the 3 drive belts, a suggestion from Harry at VPI. Durring the discussion, I asked what would happen when the knot came around, "nothing" was his reply. I asked why he didn't use Spyder Wire if it was superior to a rubber drive belt. His reply," I be spending too much time on the phone answering the same question you asked, it's not worth it." The only change I'm making regarding the HRX drives is cosmetic. I've stripped off the wrinkle coat paint with Methylene Chloride and will be sending them to Rayco Industries and Valley Plating in Conn. to be brushed and anodized in Krell Gray hard coat and black to match my Krell gear.
In keeping with the idea of three's, three arms will give me the opportunity to use 4 top cartridges simoutaneously. The Dynavector DV 507 MK II , with an extra plug in head shell, will enable me to switch between Dynavector XV-Is stereo and mono cartridges, as I have enough great mono classical titles to make it worth while to have both.
My original choice of arms included the DV 507 MK II, the Tri Plainer VII, and the Kuzma Air Line. A few months ago I felt another Air Line would be a better choice than the Tri Plainer, a great arm in it's own right. The "gonner" that bought it got a new and unused arm at a great price, praise the Lord for Audiogon.
I have another 550 lbs of aluminum almost ready to ship off to Conn. and I need to take and post pictures on Audiogon. My friends in audio keep asking me how I can be so patient with this project. Long term goals are the best, and WORTH waiting for.
I have a Koetsu Platinum signature Jade, My Sonic Labs Eminent, and a Shelter 90 X. I bought the shelter 2 years ago , almost to the day, and finally installed it 3 weeks ago, I'm listening to it now, instead of the Benz Glider. What a difference. While I bought the cartridge new, I'm not the first person to listen to it.
6 months or so ago , I responded to a thread, probably on the analog site. As happens , the discussion wandered off on a tangent. I posted a thought about getting something for nothing, made mention of some members of society getting legal representation free, a metaphor of great sound cheap, if I remember correctly. If I'm wrong, I'll defer to Hillary's, " I really don't recall." I was posting to a reply from "gregadd." Look up his thread responses if you have time. He, as a lawyer, seems to have chosen to have a great social conscience, rather than a big bank account; The legal shark community could take a lesson from Gregg. In an attempt to ease my conscience, and as a remedy for "foot in mouth disease," I sent my 90 X off for him to try --- a true gentleman.
Music is great, along with the "gonners" that have the same passion.
The infectious passion had to peak for me when I built my first line source speaker, that was almost 20 years ago. Until then , I was listening to a pair of Electro Voice Patricians I built in 1960. What a shift from Horn loaded speakers to Line Sources. Albert has ascended to his present system, after who knows how many years, that delivers his audio utopia thrill via a line source system. I will not speak for Albert, his thousand or so threads and responses, speak for themselves. I can only say, IMHO; A large room, properly designed, line source speakers, power amps many times larger than necessary, a VINYL music source, a woman that puts up with sound that is almost better than sex, is as good as it gets.
As, Nietzsche said, watch out for my spelling " Without music, life is meaningless." I will have that quotation across the front of my music room when it is finished.
Time, greater knowledge of what makes you happy, MUSIC, and someone to share it with, is what gets me up in the morning. My business also helps, it pays for everything; Albert will agree, reputation is the moniker of success.
So, sell your car, move into a loft with 12 ft ceilings, talk your better half into getting a part time job. Stay close to a Good Will or Salvation Army store. Old guys like Albert and me die all the time. The kids take all that vinyl trash to the drop off station to get that receipt for $100 for the records that aren't worth s--t. Keep your eyes open on Audiogon, to see if Albert or I die, then POUNCE on the remains.----- I wish you luck,-- I can't speak for Albert, he may liver forever!!
I grew up in Milwaukee; Schlitz, Miller, Blatz, 905, Gettleman, Old Milwaukee, Bullfrog, Van Merit--16 ounces for the price of everyone elses 12 ounce bottles, and who knows how many other small brewers. I've been asked what the big brewerys looked like. All those years in Milwaukee, and I never set foot in a brewery. The closest I've ever been to an aging vat is in our local "Hopps" restaurant, and I don't even drink beer.
We can drive the Chevy around the block and pick up Sue at my front door. She 's all I can handle, the rest is up to you.>[kftool
Owner
Albert,
I'm making an assumption, based on the many postings on Audiogon, along with personal experience, that your audio knoweldge may be second only to your afinity for Mexican food, Indian food, any food, along with great beer. Old Milwaukee might not be a brand you've been familiar with, I hope.
Cars,---- My 55 Chevy is waiting to be reved up. I have it only because I have it. I don't get turned on the way I do when I find an LP that shivers my timbers. That 's why it's been sitting for 2 years. This summer I'll repaint it and get it to run so I can drive to Good Will to look for records. I'm sure that someone will offer me $500 for it in the parking lot.
Albert, I look forward to having you as my guest. As you know, I am a solid state guy, Krell from my kitchen sink to my driveway. I will have booze, ear plugs, women, Mexican food well-- maybe not women.
Albert, you know the saying about the mountain and Mohammed. Mohammed had to go to the mountain. When my mountain is done, I'll send you a ticket. You can critique my work and enjoy the Chevy too, If I'll have it done by then.
With the number of projects I've got going, God will need to give me a few months notice before I die. That may be the only way everything will get finished!/]**
I've been drooling over this project since Christmas 2005, it is my hope it will be done in another 3 months.
Audiophiles wonder why a tt needs to cost $10,000, $30,000 or $100,000 dollars. If God sent down the plans for the n'th degree table, it would sell for a lot less than the price of a cheap car.
God is with us all , but applying our talents , when we aren't profesionals in the field takes time. The internet will supply a boost to an idea , but not a solution to a problem. I've taken advantage of all the avalilable resources on this project and know I'll end up with satisfaction and great music. If I don't , I'll blame it on my 65 years old years
The project is getting closer to fruition; I'll be sending another 550 lbs of aluminum up to Conn. to be brushed and anodized to match my Krell gear. The table needs to have a stand that compliments the table and maintains the mechanical grounding of the system. I look forward to the return shipment so that requirement will be satisfied.
There have been a few changes and additions to the project that slowed everything down. Summer is also a deterrent; more landscaping and weed pulling.
I had talked to VPI about getting 3 aluminum bases, as used for the HRX motor, but without the holes machined for the ac plug and on/ off switch. I planned on having them brushed and anodized in the Krell colors matching the rest of the table. After waiting for a couple months for them to order another batch from their machinist, I was told the next order was produced with all the holes in all the bases; someone forgot to order 3 different bases for me. I didn't want to wait for a year or so for them to order more bases, so I'm making a slate textured epoxy mold to laminate a shell to fit over, and bond to, the existing bases I now have. I'm going to send them to be brushed and anodized on the top so I'll get the appearance I'm looking for.
I also decided to build a stand/ base to hold everything. 2 plates of 1 1/2 inch Aluminum billet with chamfered corners and edges to match those supporting the table. That also meant 4 large brass tip toes and brass/ lead cups to accept them. All this extra machining also took a little more time and $$$.
Replacing the plain aluminum shroud around the Minus K with 1/2 inch aluminum plates is taking place now. The front plate will hold all the power switches, 2 air pressure gages for the Air lines, and a vacuum gage. I plan on using DC relays and controls to switch all the AC on and off. I want to keep ac away from any signal lines.
By the way, I sold the Tri Plainer and got another Kuzma Air Line instead, ergo the 2 air pressure gages. I would probably replace the Dynavector with another Air Line but the interchangable headshells will make it easy to switch between stereo and mono cartridges, so the Dynavector will stay.
The last batch of aluminum will go out to be brushed and anodized in about 2 weeks and will return in another 3 weeks. By then it should be time to assemble everything and see how it all sounds.
I'll take a few pictures of the stand parts and post them in a week or so, or so, or so####.
If I were your junior, I'd say you have me at a disadvantage, but since that's not the case, my only excuse is that I've never been a car guy. High end audio, photography, and great autos have always been known to go together. I know you have experience in all three, so I'll adopt your suggestion for a name, it sounds great. It is my hope the table will live up to the name.
You're right, larger, more powerful motors will present more of a problem with vibration and noise isolation than smaller,less powerful units. Once the table is up to speed the only drag on the drive system is created by bearing friction and the drag force of the stylus as it navigates the record grooves.
The VPI HRX drive unit incorporates two 7 watt ac synchronous motors, low power in their own right. Together the pair drives a 15 lb flywheel that transfers its rotational energy to the platter, it then becomes the driving force in the system.
When I began to think about the design of this 3 arm table I knew there would be times when I'd have all 3 arms on the record simultaneously. It would enable me to see which of the 3 cartridges would sound best on that particular piece of music. The potential for excess drag could affect the speed accuracy of the table. That factor was the main reason for multiple drives. The original layout was for 2 arms and 2 drives. When I deciced to add a third arm the geometry forced me to add a third drive and maintain symetry with a triangular plinth. Sometimes projects seem to take on a life of their own, for me this one did.
It sounds as though you may have built a table for yourself. What was your design and how did it turn out?
I just finished shipping the aluminum pieces off to be brushed and annodized. It will be a few weeks before I'll get them back. By then I'll have the Minus K platform so I can assemble it all. I figure about 1 week for assembly and then it will be showtime. I'm laying out the stand for it now and it will be finished in about 1 month. Barring any unforscene problems, it should be playing music in about 5 or 6 weeks.
I'm happy with the way it looks, very substantial. The way it will sound is still to be realized.
I spent 3 days at the CES last week. I only took the time to visit vinyl oriented rooms. If they didn't have a turntable, they were on my second tour of duty. It is unbelievable the number of turntables that were shown, and I photographed them all. The most expensive, Clearaudio Statement at $100,000; Continium, one at $90,000 and a cheaper one at about $50,000. For the weak of wallet, there were tables at about $400 and up.
There seems to be a race to the top in price, with $100,000 to be the champ until a discussion with an industry source, beyond reproach, and definitely IN THE LOOP, said. Not a quote; Goldmund is about to release a new Reference. $100,000 down with the order, and another $100,000 upon delivery. That is for the basic model, the deluxe version is another $160,000. Over a third of a million to play records!
I have no desire or intention to venture into the arena of gladiators offering turntables! I plan on enjoying my creation, regardless of how it may sound, and concentrate on a new project; maybe a super record cleaning machine.
Building this thing is fun, however, I'd also like to be listening to my Air Line tonight, as you're probably listening to yours, lucky dog. Instead, I'm building the crate for the 21 separate aluminum parts so I can ship them off to be brushed and annodized; in the Krell colors of gray and black, to match my Krell gear. My time will come.
I'll post a few new pictures next week, I hope they'll be of interest.
The CES was great. I didn't set a foot in the Zoo, and probably missed nothing.
I met Albert Porter on the second day and it was fun from 9 AM until 10 PM. I never thought I'd enjoy myself as much as I did, so I extended the trip by 1 day. The hotel and airline both ate my buttttttttt , however it was worth it.
I ordered 2 more Krell KPE reference phono amps, so I now have one for each of the 3 cartridges. What can I say, I'm a solid state guy. I purchased a Krell KCT pre amp to use as a switcher among the 3 cartridges on the table I'm building. The table is 35 feet from the processor , so I needed a source to send a balanced signal to my HTS 7.1 processor.When I get the 707 with CAST connections I can send a cast signal from the turntable to the processor. I just wish I had the option to use cast throughout the whole system, but I haven't found a money tree yet.
I was hoping to see the Krell 707 Processor being released soon, but it will be around June. It is as big as a FPB 600 and will be more expensive than previously thought, thank God I have no kids in college.
My turntable project is progressing as best as can be expected. I hope it will be done around the end of Feb. As promised, I will send You a ticket to hear it when it is done.
Thanks, It seems as though I need some type of project to keep my blood preassure up. When the table is done I'll need to finish the listening room I started 15 years ago. Only the sound treatment and woodwork are left before it will be compleat. Then I guess I'll need another project.
I have a shelter 90x, a My Sonic Labs Eminent, and a Koetsu Platinum Signature Jade. It will be interesting to switch among all 3 cartridges while they're all in the same groove.
I noticed you have the Odyssey Mk 5 rcm. I saw it at the CES and it was gorgeous. How and where did you order your custom version, direct from Germany?
Slipknot1 Joe, At the moment, it is weighing in at around 680 lbs. My weight limit is 700 lbs which is the capacity of the largest stock Minus K platform available. That gives me 20 lbs to use to ballast the table out for maximum performance on the Minus K. The vibration platform weighs 80 lbs and the plate it rests on weighs 110 lbs. I'm guessing the stand I'll build for it to come in at around 220 lbs, so the whole thing will be around 1100 lbs. It's good my room is on a 10 inch slab.
Whoops, I forgot the weight of the cartridges, add another 29 grams.
The pleasure was all mine. It was certainly recognizable how just about everyone at the many high end audio rooms we visited seemed to know Albert Porter on a first name basis. You've built yourself quite a reputation in the industry.
Your choice of good food is also acute, as I plan to take Sue out for a dinner at our local " Indian Food" hot spot.
It took me many years to develop Endurance and patience, to whatever degree I possess them. I feel that when a person can settle down and realize that long term goals are the most satisfying to reach, time doesn't seem to matter as much, as long as there is enough time to reach that goal.
Joe, this project has taken longer than I planned, the novel appearance of the table has kept my ambition up. I've all but stopped thinking about the arm- cartridge match ups, to say nothing about the differences in the sounds of the 3 cartridges when they're all on the record at the same time.
For the last month or so I've been playing records on my old Sota Star- Benz glider table and everything I play sounds better than I expected, except for the bottom end. I think I could turn the subs off without noticing any difference.
Joe, thanks for your kind comments, as a Walker table owner, you're accustomed to top notch gear.
Albert, I'm flattered that you asked about making it available to others. I was asked that same question 2 weeks ago by someone within the audio industry and I passed it off as just lip service, but who knows. The second one of anything is almost always easier than the first, and cheaper too.
And yes, it was a bunch of work. I usually keep a good cost and time record of my projects, but not this one. It started out to be an easy 3 month project, that was 6 months ago. These things seem to grow legs of their own.
Regarding the looks; I'm crating all the aluminum now to be sent out to be brushed and anodized. All the brass tiptoes and cups should be done in a few weeks, I'm getting anxious. I'll post another set of photos then.
I appreciate your comment, it is especially meaningful coming from someone who'se system has as many great tables as yours.
I noticed the remark on your virtual systems posting regarding you hearing a K horn in '77 that started you on your way, they sure were great. I heard my first K horn type, an Electro Voice Patrician, in 1956. I heard them at Audio Engineers in Milwaukee. They had a promotion ; Buy one at $999. , and get the second for 1 PENNY. I was in high school then, so it took me 3 years to build them from scratch , getting all the drivers from Olson Electronics at 20 % off. I still have all the drivers but had to pitch the cabinets 20 years ago when I finally retired them. I'm sure you'll never forget the impact they delivered, and they took almost no power to bleed your ears!
" I hope to have this project done in 2 months." You mentioned doing all the work on your sound room yourself , so you know how much credibility can be put in the target date of a DIY project.
Thanks for the reply, and I hope you'll check back as I post more pix as the project NNNNNNNEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAARRRRRRSSSSSSS compleation.
