System edited: Traded in Reed 3P for Schröder LT. It is a significant improvement on the Reed. Worth every penny and more. First rate build quality, and sonics.
The Pass is terrific. You can set it by ear and forget it. You won't obtain the best results that way. I couldn't get it sounding exactly the way I wanted. I found with any crossover it's helpful to have some kind of measurement capability especially with amps of different sensitivities (but even if they're all the same I'd still do this). I use a function generator (I bought used off eBay) as a pre-amp input outputting different frequencies. I measure and match R & L amp outputs with a digital volt meter to within a millivolt, and then measure the overall room response with the DSpeaker 2.0 Antimode Dual Core to make sure the gain settings are right. It may sound complicated, but it's doesn't take long, and you get perfectly balanced results - a better soundstage and a very centered vocal image. I know of the Magtech but never heard one.
Hi Barry, My speakers are bi-amped. I use the DPR-500 on the electrostat panels. The bass amp for the woofers is Innersound as well. An active crossover is built into the bass amp and comes with the speakers when you buy them. My preamp output goes to the crossover/bass amp and then there is an output from that to the DPR-500 for the panels. I have plenty of power with this setup and never hear any clipping even at high SPL's. I find these amps transparent and revealing. They also have plenty of speed and are not sluggish. I have not used the DPR-500 on the bass drivers so I can not say for sure how it handles bass but the bass amp is of similar design with a little less power at 360 wpc.
Sanders Sound has a new amp called the Magtech that is pretty much the same amp as the DPR-500 except it has a regulated power supply according to Roger Sanders. The regulated power supply is supposed to be better for magnetic drivers like in your speakers. Roger said it was not necessary for my electrostat panels. It would be interesting to hear one driving my woofers.
Your system looks very nice. Looks like you have put allot of work into it. Was it difficult to get the Pass crossover dialed in?
Sean Great system. The car too. I had a friend who owned a 1965 with a 389 and "trips", the 3-2 barrel carb option back in the day. Bring back memories.
I'm interested in your opinions on the Innersound DPR-500. General comments on sound quality and how the bass is on it?
Sarcher30: Electronics upstream from the Soundlab M1PX's is tubed. The list follows: CAT JL3 Monoblocks Auria Audio WV5 Pre Amp (with phono) Wavelength Crimson USB DAC Galibier Quattro TT [Tri-Planer Tonearm, Dynavector XV1s Cart] Synergistic Research IC's & Speaker Cable
Thanks Mrmb, The amp stands use constrained layer construction under the top butcher block. Similar to what I did with my plinth. I'm using layers of cork between layers maple. I also use roller feet of my own design in between the amps and the stands. The feet are similar to Roller Blocks but made out of Stainless Steel.
My amps are Innersound. I was using the JC-1's little brother A21 before I got the DPR-500.
What upstream equipment are you using in front of your Soundlabs?
As I advised on a thread I started re. Soundlab &/or electrostatic speaker cables in general, your system and especially your ride (GTO) are enviable.
However the purpose of this additional post is to inquire about your amp stands (BTW: Your amps are Parasound JC1's aren't they?). It appears that the stands are a composed of two main pieces. The top one looks like a butcher block. How about the bottom piece? Does one piece rest atop the other, or are they fastened together etc.? It would be great if you would comment on the composition of your amp stands?
My SME 10 first on a Townshend Seismic Sink and then on a Vibraplane was certainly good. But the 30/12 with V-12 arm on a Vibraplane truly is special. It gave me a newfound respect for the importance of the front end.
Thanks Peter. I enjoy it allot. I'm sure your system sounds great as well. The SME 30/12 on a vibraplane must be something else. I want to try a vibraplane one of these days.
Hi C2300mc275, The improvement in sound I hear with the Teres outboard motor is a clearer and more focused sound. I believe this is due to the use of a belt material (tape) that stretches much less. Also the Teres motor controls speed with a sensor mounted under the platter reading a strobe pattern attached to the bottom of the platter. The speed is a little more accurate this way. The only drawback is it takes about 20-30 seconds for the motor to lock on to speed. By the time I clean the stylus and use the carbon fiber brush on the record its ready to go.
BTW I am selling the VPI and Linn. I will probably sell the Teres motor seperately unless someone wants them both. I'm going down to one TT with 2 arms.
Ya it's definately not a cookie cutter system. The Innersounds solve alot of the typical problems with electrostats. First is you can crank em up without worrying about the panels arcing. The stators have a coating on them to prevent that. The bass goes down to 20hz and integrates so well I don't hear the crossover. Unlike some others I've heard. The deal breaker for most people is the flat panels are beamy at high frequencies. Which means the sweet spot is only one person wide. The bonus of a flat panel is less reflections off the side walls and clearer sound.
The GTO gets alot of looks for sure. :)
Old Caddies are cool. The horns may be a bit much. ;)
Some interesting, and not common, equipment, at least from my perspective. We have the Allnic H3000 in common, and I used electrostats as my main system from about 1973 until around 2005 or 2006. Still love their immediacy and openness, i could just never get the woofer thing sound cohesive with mine (Quads of various vintages, going all the way back). Dig the GTO. It was a hot shit car then, and it's even more of a hot shit car now. I'm thinkin, when i get to Tx., I gotta get me a 60's caddy with some steerhorns mounted up front. But, natives have told me- everybody will then know I'm from outa town. :)
Thanks Albert, Yes the mk2 is on the Equarack. The Equarack feet have visco elastic pellets in the middle. Each pellet can handle 3 lbs. So I can tune the feet for the exact weight of the component on them. It works pretty well. I'm on a suspended wood floor and can play with my dog without making the stylus skip. I would like to try a vibraplane one of these days though.
I got my CU-180 from user foxtan on ebay. It is not being manufactured anymore so you will have to find it used. I paid $600. It may take awhile to find one but it will be worth it. Albert Porter posted some pictures of one on his system page near the end. Take a look at those before you buy one to make sure you get the real thing. On Albert's page we discussed the TTWeights copper mat and he prefers the CU-180.
Sound wise in addition to the lower noise floor the bass tightened up and the mids/highs are more resolving. It's not something you will have to strain to hear.
I also have a Boston Audio mat 1 and a Herbies Way Excellent II mat. I like both of these over the stock rubber mat. I think the CU-180 is better on the SP-10 because it blocks EMF from the motor as well as adds some weight.
System edited: Added a Micro Seiki CU-180 mat to my SP10 mk2a. This is just about a mandatory accessory for the SP10 mk2. Bass is the most noticeable improvement. Tighter and better defined. Lower noise floor and more resolution as well. Sounds like I bought a supeior TT. Well worth the investment.
