Description

How I play my 5000 odd LP's.
Read more...

Room Details

Dimensions: 18’ × 23’  Large
Ceiling: 7’


Components Toggle details

    • TW Raven AC-3 with BN platter
    3 motor German turntable
    • Thales Audio Simplicity II
    tangential tracking tonearm - just superb
    • Technics TECHNICS SL-1000MK3D SP10-MK3 SH-10B5 Plinth.
    Classic Technics table
    • Graham Engineering Phantom B 44
    tonearm
    • Exclusive P3
    Wonderful sounding turntable from 1979
    • Exclusive P10
    Great sounding vintage 1979 DD table, 2nd to the P3.
    • Lyra ATLAS SL
    phono cartridge
    • Lyra Etna SL
    phono cartridge
    • Dynavector DRT XV-1s
    top of the line dynavector cartridge
    • Ortofon MC A90 anniversary
    absolutely reference grade cartridge that sounds like your system.
    • Linn LP-12 Lingo
    LP12 TT with Naim ARO arm
    • Lyra Delos
    overachieving entry level lyra cart - plays higher than its price
    • Denon ESC 103R
    cartridge
    • Ortofon SPU Classic GM E MKII
    enough said
    • Ortofon SPU Royal GM
    .
    • Nordost Valhalla
    between turntable and phono stage
    • Accuphase C-37
    3 input phono stage
    • TW Acustik Phono
    3 input pure tube phono section with 6 impedance settings. Very quiet for a full tube gain phono stage
    • Esoteric E-03
    two input phono stage
    • Ortofon Verto Set-Up Transformer
    excellent SUT for the SPU's
    • Conrad Johnson GAT
    very nice preamp
    • Deqx HDP-4
    DSP speaker and room correction. especially good at correcting and eq of bass
    • Nordost Tyr 6m
    ic between pre and power
    • D'Agostino Momentum Stereo
    SS amp
    • Conrad Johnson premier 8A with cj teflon upgrades
    275 watt monoblocks brought up to date with cj factory teflon cap upgrade
    • Wilson Audio Maxx 3
    Gentle Giant
    • Nordost Tyr
    Excellent
    • Kimber KS-3033
    8ft speaker cable
    • Transparent MM Reference XL-V
    speaker cable
    • Orb DF-02
    Japan's Orb make the Air Tight LP flattener. This is the new Japan model for flattening those warped and dished LP's
    • TW Acustik / Hannl Ultra
    rebadged Hannl - same as Acustech Ultra - excellent and quiet but takes longer than nitty gritty
    • Yamaha CDR-HD1300
    yamaha hard disc recorder with 80 gb disc drive and cd player. great for dubbing vinyl to CD

Comments 259

Showing all comments by raquel.

View all comments

John, Shane: Thanks for the responses.

I asked the dealer at Harvey very offhandedly whether he preferred the Mahlers or Strauss. He said he preferred the Strauss with a subwoofer. I did not get a chance to hear his justification, i.e., whether he was thinking of two-channel, home theater, his own personal situation, etc. -- the store was closing and we were talking on the sidewalk. In any event, the Verities are supurb at what they do and I am sure you will enjoy them. I have Mahlers and Salons, and actually prefer the Mahlers in a number of ways.

On a different topic, I use Kimber Select 1030 throughout my main system, the single-ended version of the 1130 you have. As explained above, don't draw any conclusions as to any Kimber "Black Pearl" silver product until it has a good 1,000 hours on it. My closest hi-fi friend found Jena Symphony to be superior to 1030 in his (very high-end) system (quieter, more dynamic, and more like live music), but cables of course are very system finnicky, so perhaps you will find otherwise.

raquel

Gentlemen:

I have read the above exchange comparing the Strauss with the Verities with interest. As Shane knows, I have Mahlers in my second system.

Your exchange raises a question for me that I have wondered about in the past: how comparable is the performance of the Strauss to the Mahler? It appears that they use different midrange drivers (the drivers in the Strauss looked physically smaller to me when I saw the speaker at Harvey on West 45th St. in NYC, and Sumiko's website indicates that they are indeed slightly smaller). Also, while the Mahler otherwise appears to differ only in having an additional 10" woofer, it is, at $10k versus $6k, nearly twice the price of the Strauss. Does it therefore have, for example, a more refined crossover, better cabinet construction, etc., to justify the price disparity?

Has anyone out there carefully compared these two speakers and/or can anyone speak from knowledge about the technical differences between them?

raquel

I have a friend running the Dynavector XV-1s with an SME IV. They work extremely well together -- the resonant frequency is 11 Hz., which is perfect for each.

raquel

Shane: Actually, what I am saying is that burned-in 3033 is a flat-out great cable, and can be incredibly good on Mahlers assuming it works with the partnering amp, and that 3035 or 3038, which use the Black Pearl silver conductor, sound close to broken until they get the full 1,000 hours on them. If it is easy for you to do, my strong advice is to give the 3033 a shot.

raquel

Shane:

That is a shame -- those cables are nowhere near ready for critical listening with so few hours on them. Yet another example of a dealer not knowing something crucial about a high performance hi-fi product.

Yeah, if you were anywhere near, they'd be all yours for a good demo. I use Kimber Select all-silver exclusively in my main system, and used Kimber Select all-copper exclusively in my second system. While in my systems, there was a very noticeable difference between the all-silver (1030) and all-copper (1011) interconnects, the difference between the all-silver (3038) and all-copper (3033) speaker cables was much more subtle, the only real difference being a bit more resolution in the mids and highs with the silver cable (as there should be). In short, I can whole-heartedly recommend the 3033, and being all-copper, it only needs about 100 hours to come around.

As for the 3035, however, you have not heard that cable yet -- your dealer did you (and himself) a disservice. If you would like to know my source at Kimber who confirmed what my dealer told me about the 1,000 break-in period for the Kimber products using the Black Pearl silver conductor, I can e-mail you offline.

raquel

Shane:

Good to hear from you. Do you know how many hours the 3035 you tried had on them? I ask because the "Black Pearl' silver conductor takes a full 1,000 hours to break in fully. This was not only my personal experience, but the (sheepish) acknowledgment of a very high up at Kimber. Without those hours, the cables sound closed in and a bit dead.

raquel

Shane:

I think I've mentioned this to you before. Sumiko, the U.S. importer of Vienna Acoustics, used to demo the Mahlers with Kimber Bi-Focal, and that is what they recommended to me as being the best for controlling the woofers. I ended buying Kimber's best, Kimber Select, first the all-copper 3033 and then all-silver 3038, which uses the same cable geometry as the Bifocal, but it is an overall better cable. Both did/do a great job, especially with the bass. In addition, Anthony Cordesman, in his review of the Mahlers for Audio, found that Kimber Select gave him much better control of the bass and bass tone than the other cables he had on hand. The all-copper 3033 is not outrageously expensive, at +/-$1,500 new for 8 ft. runs in the U.S., and half that if purchased used (the all-silver 3038, on the other hand, is really expensive).

Speaker cables also interact greatly with the amp (so much so that they should probably be called "amp cables"), and I cannot say how Kimber Select would work with your c-j amps, so there would be some uncertainty there. They worked great with all of my amps, for whatever it's worth (two different SS amps and tube monoblocks).

Hope this helps.

raquel

Shane:

Those Mahlers look pretty close to the back wall. Have you tried them a few more feet out from the wall? You could also try reversing the direction in which the woofers fire. Either of these moves could soften your bass hump.

I enjoyed the LP covers of the King (and, of course, the disco ball hanging from the ceiling).

raquel