Description

** UPDATES Sept 2019
Koetsu Blue Lace with Diamond Cantilever is the BOMB. Unambiguously the best cartridge I've ever heard. The diamond cantilever raises detail, speed and dynamics of Koetsu to a next level, without pulling it towards analytical. In fact, this change actually allows MORE of the famous Koetsu musicality to pour through the speakers. Added in March of this year. Mounted on the FR64S (this arm is now clearly superior to the Graham Phantom Supreme for Koetsus). I've also switched my SUT to the Choir Audio unit based on Hashimoto HM-7. My EAR MC-3 and Koetsu SUT (pictured here atop the VAC) also sound great with the Blue Lace, but the Hashimoto sounds HUGE with lifelike dynamics. Another change is rolling tubes in the VAC phono: 1 pair Mazda 12ax7 chrome plates (my favorite), 1 pair RCA black plates 12ax7, 1 pair Mullard reissue 12ax7 - this results in a tonal balance similar to the stock tubes, but with enhanced detail, 3D imaging, and bass impact. If it weren't for my need to closely track the stock tonal balance (because that works well with my system), I'd have all 6 Mazda chromes in there - and the Mullard pair is there because it's warm enough to counter the Mazda's top end (otherwise, it's a serviceable but not stellar tube). Stock tubes were VAC's selected PentaLabs (Chinese) 12ax7. The latest system pic shows a Rogue RP-9 preamp on the bottom rack shelf, but I still use the ARC REF 6 as my primary preamp. I'm also back to the Shelter Harmony on a Clearaudio Universal 12" for my 2nd arm, which I try to mix in to save hours on Koetsu - I haven't been very successful at this, however! As good as the Harmony/Universal combo is (for a while I was going back & forth between this and the non-Diamond Koetsu stone bodies), the Blue Lace just takes everything to another level. 

** Updates Feb 2018
I have upgraded literally EVERYTHING since July 2017. I kept with the same general system composition; in many cases simply moving to newer model years and/or the next model(s) up. I did change from all Rogue Audio electronics to VAC & ARC for phono stage & preamp -- yes, I have to admit that was the right move for me to finally make. I've stuck with the Rogue Apollo amps, but bought the new "Dark" upgraded versions. And also bought a big-boy CMS Maxxum rack -- sayonara, Lovan!! I think I've kept like 3 power cords, a pair of AQ Kilimanjaro, and a pair of AQ Wild interconnects. Everything else is brand new. 

** Updates Sept/Oct 2016
Added a few updated photos, and posted a more detailed comment on recent upgrades. My original upgrade plans, as enumerated below, were formulated in 2010/2011. I've finally logged updates to each of these items. The core Tannoy/Koetsu/Rogue blend has always remained in place -- because it sounds awesome! I've also had my beloved Koetsu Onyx Platinum recently broken (RIP to my girlfriend), and bought a new Coralstone to console myself.

Mazda silver-plate 12ax7 have been put EVERYWHERE. A friend introduced me to this tube in 2015, and I absolutely love it. BIG upgrade over the usual suspects: Telefunken (smooth & ribbed), Mullard long-plates, RCA long black plates, RCA 3-mica 5751, GE 5751 "silver clips", etc.

I've fallen a bit sucker to the cable industry, and have been moving up in the Audioquest line (mostly silver) when I can find the right ones used. 

My headphone system has also gone crazy in the last 2 years: Stax SR-009, Stax L700, Head-amp BHSE (stocked with the ample vintage British/Mullard or Holland/Amperex EL34 on hand), Schiit Yggdrasil. Also have a KGSShv Carbon, Balanced-hev90 clone, KGST, KGSShv x2 etc. But the BHSE is the best. I also have a SR-007 Mk I, but strongly prefer the SR-009 and L700.

My (now very old) upgrade plans:

1) Tannoy Canterbury SE; their size is better suited to my room; the 96dB efficiency is also very appealing 
** UPDATE: Did this October 2012 - A VERY good move in the end, though I must admit it's very frustrating to re-tune & adapt everything for a new speaker, even one from the same line as its predecessor (Tannoy Kensington SE). The Kensington needed a boost in bass energy and some relaxation up top. The Canterbury SE needs some help coaxing sparkle/energy up top. The Canterburys simply sound HUGE, and I love it. 

2) Phono stage...perhaps a CineMag blue step-up to feed into the VAC Ren III's phono. Or, drop the VAC (as good as it is) and start from scratch. Perhaps a Hagerman Trumpet w/ CineMag blue or Artemis Labs? 
** UPDATE: Finally settled on a Rogue Ares in late 2014, after the THIRD TIME buying this phono stage, lol. Its latest revision is superb when paired with: Mazda Silver-plate 12AX7, Sylvania 1950s Black Plate 12BH7 OR Mazda Silver-plate 6189, and Bob's Devices 1131 SUT (each of these makes a BIG difference). Finally, this combo yields notably better sound than the built-in phono of the VAC Renaissance III that I loved so much. 

3) Table: Either a SOTA Cosmos or a Clearaudio Innovation Wood Compact (leaning heavily towards the SOTA due to past experiences) 
** UPDATE: Got the Clearaudio Innovation, obviously, in Spring 2014. With Graham Phantom II Supreme tonearm. Great table/arm, but not without their imperfections. And expensive. VERY expensive. Overall I'm mostly happy with this table rig, though. Added the Clearaudio ring clamp and reference weight late 2014 (way too expensive, but nice).

All setup in an old loft apartment in a commercial district with NO RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORS!! The best time to crank the system up is midnight-5am - there's nobody within a mile! Solid, over-built late 1800s construction. No laundry hookups, no oven, no cable - but NO complaints from me for the overall benefits :)
** UPDATE: Still the same hookup :)
Read more...

Room Details

Dimensions: 21’ × 14’  Medium
Ceiling: 10’


Components Toggle details

    • Tannoy Canterbury GR
    Big Tannoys; totally rad speakers!!
    • VAC Master 300 Musicblocs
    Transformative, transcendent amplifiers. Largest single-component improvement I've heard in my life. Absolutely blows the 200iQ's away.
    • VAC Master
    Line-Stage. I never felt 100% about this preamp when paired with the Signature 200iQ's. But now paired with the Master 300 monos - oh yeah, 100% world class baby! Stunning!
    • VAC Signature 200iQ
    Stunning sound quality
    • VAC Renaissance Phono SE
    Stunningly natural, lifelike sound
    • Clearaudio Master Innovation
    Badass Turntable
    • Critical Mass Systems MAXXUM
    Crazy expensive rack, but it works as advertised, and earns its keep while looking awesome!
    • Audio Research REF 6
    Very clean, clear sounding Preamp
    • Koetsu Coralstone Diamond
    Amazing, stunning, beautiful cartridge. The Onyx Platinum is now my 2nd favorite.
    • Koetsu Onyx Platinum
    Pure. F___ing. Magic. In the midrange. Treble and bass quality are not as good as say an Ortofon Windfeld, but they're still quite good. And the Ortofon midrange is just awful by comparison to any Koetsu.
    Recently rebuilt in Japan; good as new again!
    • Koetsu Jade Platinum
    Sounds almost exactly like the Onyx Platinum, but slightly less warm and slightly more air on top. Very, very close. I keep this one in reserve.
    • Ortofon MC A90
    • Rogue Audio Apollo Dark
    Very good, very powerful tube amps.
    • Bob's Devices Sky 40
    Step-up Transformer; great match for the Koetsu Platinums.
    • AudioQuest Niagara 7000
    w/ NRG 1000 PC
    • Rogue Audio Ares Magnum
    Great phono stage, notably better than the non-Magnum Ares. Even with the Cinemag 1254 Blue SUT built-in, I still added an outboard SUT: Bob's Devices Cinemag Sky 40. Also upgraded the hell out of the mediocre stock tubes: Mazda 12AX7 chrome plates, Sylvania 12BH7 black plates. Superb match with Koetsu cartridges this.
    • Rogue Audio Hera II
    Upgraded to Hera II status. Fabulous sound, BUT NOT dead quiet (in conflict with the product description page's boast). It's a high-gain tube preamp so there is some noise floor if you have sensitivity amps and speakers like I do. I can deal with it because the sound quality beyond that is so great. I liked it better than the VAC Renaissance III line stage.
    • Clearaudio Innovation Wood
    Excellent table. A good clamping scheme is essential for any high-end vinyl rig -- and Clearaudio's clamps are excellent.
    • Graham Engineering Phantom Supreme
    The Graham Phantom Supreme arm is GREAT with Koetsu
    • Head-amp Blue Hawaii SE (BHSE)
    Exotic, beautiful, and amazing sounding electrostatic headphone amplifier for the top Stax headphones.
    • Stax SR-009
    The best headphones in the world. Requires electrostatic headphone amp.
    • Stax L700
    The best of the Lambda series. Not as good as the 009, but an exceedingly enjoyable headphone. I prefer this L700 to the SR-007 Mk I (a.k.a. Omega 2)
    • Audioquest (All analog cabling)
    WEL LP phono, WEL LP 0.5m RCA (for SUT), Fire RCA, Fire XLR, Wild Blue Yonder XLR, Wind XLR, Sky RCA, Sky XLR, Niagara RCA, Mont Blanc, Kilimanjaro (x2).
    • Sonic Frontiers Phono 1 SE+
    Fully upgraded by Parts Connexion. Awesome phono stage that's sadly becoming rarer and more unheard of by the day. Think I'll be retiring from the last few years' phono stage madness with this unit. Edit 2016: Whoops, guess I liked the Rogue Ares w/ 1131 SUT better after all. And the new Ares Magnum is even more better.
    • Phison Audio A2.120SE
    Sweet solid state power. 120 Watts/ch.
    • Phison A2.120 SE
    Solid State Class AB stereo amp, 120 Watts/ch, MSRP $12K. Sounds WAY sweeter than I ever expected a SS Class AB amp could sound, plus with killer bass! It's become one of my favorite components over the past year, and competes earnestly with my $30K VAC 200iQ monos!

Comments 147

Showing all comments by mulveling.

View all comments

Owner
@islandmandan 
That's awesome to hear! So glad it worked out for you. I felt kind of weird recommended him, because I haven't actually used his services yet (or any 3rd party tipper for that matter), but everything I've seen and read from him has been so impressive - and his "philosophy" is more compatible to me than the other options. I'll definitely be sending Joseph Long some nice cartridges in the future!

Crazy the DV now beats the Vermillion so much, but that's somewhat consistent with my findings that system matching is SO crucial - in the end, the only way to be sure of a synergistic pairing is to try gear in our own systems. I'm sure that Vermillion will be a gem somewhere else. 

mulveling

Owner
Hi Dan @islandmandan ,
Well let's look on the bright side - your Koetsu is probably fine as is! Good idea to get it checked anyways. Have Joseph verify the alignment looks OK, etc. 

I'm in my 40s and already make plenty of mistakes too lol - it happens! We're human! Contact / connection quality is something I've become very sensitive to. I've seen SO many gremlins from this, especially in the analog chain where we end up having a LOT of them. If it's not causing a channel to fully drop out (sometimes intermittently), it can very easily cause a moderate L/R channel imbalance. Whenever I hear channel imbalance, I FIRST go checking all connections. I think my score so far is that the ONLY cartridge I've had with a true channel imbalance was a crusty 1980s Koetsu Onyx (before rebuild). In 30+ MC cartridges, every other one has had channel balance tighter than 0.5dB. Every time it's always been a connection/contact issue, or a bad tube.

I even had a brand new EAR MC-4 SUT with some solder detritus deep inside the Right output RCA jack (from the factory like this!) which starting causing a channel imbalance, and then an intermittent dead channel, a few months into ownership! We have to be vigilant on those physical connections. 

mulveling

Owner
Dan, 
That seems very odd to me. Why does the seller even care about your choice of retipper? Is there still some kind of contingency on the sale based on the damage report / findings? Are they invested in Needle Clinic in some other capacity?

mulveling

Owner
Dan,
Yes, of course Mike is fine :)
I think that was a good choice. Hoping for a great outcome too! Those cartridges are way too nice to not enjoy. 

Mike

mulveling

Owner
Dan @islandmandan , 
Awesome! Please let me know your results. I've got a Jade Platinum that will need a retip before my other cartridges, and I'd love to send it that way if you have a good experience (like I'm expecting).

Mike

mulveling

Owner
Hi Dan, @islandmandan 
Not sure if this forum will allow it, but here's the info I have:
860-338-0153

I haven't used him personally yet - I've only had service by Koetsu Japan. However, given that's no longer available (and was very expensive when it was), we all have to look elsewhere. Over years I've heard or seen "negatives" about all domestic retippers except for Needlestein. He's also posted some absolutely amazing information on the forums here, so it's clear he knows his stuff - I've been impressed.

There are also some amazing rebuilder overseas. You might also ask AnaMighty Sound in France. They've shown some Koetsu retip work that looks EXACTLY like the Koetsu Japan work. One of the big factors in a retip is the mount type. Most retippers use a "mound of glue" on boron, which is also used by Van den Hul and Benz. It's a perfectly valid technique, but is quite different from stock Koetsu. Most of the Japanese (and AnaMight Sound) favor an interface mount, which looks much cleaner with a lot less glue. I can usually spot the "mound of glue" Koetsu retips in a sale ad's pics, even though seller doesn't always disclose this! 

Unfortunately if you have a channel out, that indicates a problem with either the coil (bad) or lead out wire (less bad). I would definitely go to VAS before needle clinic on that one. Here would be my priority list:

1. Needlestein or AnaMighty sound
2. VAS

mulveling

Owner
Dan - also, I really doubt you killed a channel during your setup attempts. It's hard to do without opening it up. Koetsus are quite well protected. I would suspect the prior owner or retipper for causing such damage, honestly.

mulveling

Owner
@islandmandan 
Dan,
Strangely enough, I was recently in communication (on Facebook Messenger) with another new Urushi owner (not a Vermillion) who damaged his brand new cartridge during mounting. He sent it to Andy Kim, and it took a few round trips before it was fully worked again. By then, I think it had new (non-Koetsu) coils. A dead channel was ONE of the issues it came back with, after a supposed repair. I would implore you to chose someone else for service! Please! I would personally try needlestein (Joseph Long) first, then VAS. 

I'd also start to look around your area for audiophiles or dealers who might be able to mount your Koetsu as a service. Really, really sorry to hear about your troubles! Indeed, the Koetsu's boxy body obscures much of the cantilever for alignment, and some units additionally ride very low (exacerbating the problem), but the good news is every Koetsu I've seen has had good alignment agreement between the body and cantilever (ignore the brass cover plate which can sometimes be off center). Good luck!

Mike

mulveling

Owner
@islandmandan 
Nice! That Vermillion is SUCH an interesting model in the Koetsu lineup. Alternating copper / silver windings, super low 0.2mV output. Definitely keep those original coils as long as possible. I hope I get to hear one someday. RIP Fumihiko Sugano :( 

I'm a late Gen X'er who for some reason has developed an aggressive bias against digital. It's been a few months since I've listened to digital media for any meaningful duration. And it's long been relegated to just the headphone setup (very nice Stax, but still). Analog is IT for me. Got a 3,000 LP collection as my main fare, but also have some ~200 needledrop albums on Maxell Type II open reel tape (7.5 IPS, quarter track) which I really enjoy - these combine the sweet warmth of tape with most of the sound quality from a good vinyl setup. I'm not going to do the $400 audiophile reel tapes. That's just crazy. I enjoy the warmth of tape just fine from my non-audiophile small collection and vintage Pioneer RT909 deck. Not gonna get into those exotic tube tape amps and 15 IPS tapes, no sir! lol

mulveling

Owner
Hi @islandmandan ,
I don't have experience with DV arms but have long admired their design. So here is my hazarded guess: it looks like a fine mate to Koetsu. What Koetsu needs is stability more than mass, IMO. I've been surprised how well my RSP worked on a friend's VPI 3D Reference arm with dual-pivot mod (the dual pivot grants the VPI stability it was lacking). I think it's around 10g effective mass; much lower than the usual recommendation.

The DV 501 has some things really working in its favor here, like high lateral moving mass and rigid bearings. I wouldn't worry about the low vertical mass. I think it would sound good and work great. Your Herron phono stage is a fine match to Koetsu as well. Go for it!

mulveling

Owner
I know I've said this before but this system really feels "done" now -- 6 months into having the VAC Master amps. I don't know what else to do or what I would even want to do. I can swap various tubes, SUT's, cartridges, or even speaker cables whenever I want a slight change in flavor -- I have plenty of these on hand, and that's plenty of range. None of the major components need to change. It feels like 100% synergy now between VAC Master amps and VAC preamp & phono stage -- quite honestly the VAC Master preamp didn't 100% mesh with my system before these Master amps. Something about the 200iQ and Master preamp pairing just seemed "off" to me. Also didn't like the Renaissance V at all. Weird. 

The amps are sonic perfection to me. They take the best attributes of the 200iQ's on their very BEST day and make it even better. Bass was arguably a relative weakness of the 200iQ's (compared to Phison and Rogue Apollo); the Masters have easily the best bass of all these amps. Limitless dynamics. Zero strain, ever. Liquid , gorgeous midrange - this is what I think of when I think of VAC, and this is their best midrange yet. 

The 200iQs are happily powering a smaller scale system with Tannoy Glenair 10's. Here, they feel in their element again. I still love them :) There is a lot of synergy with the 200iQ's on Glenairs -- they handily beat the Apollos and Phison; I ran many trials. Gonna try an older VAC Renaissance III preamp here -- no more V's for me lol. ARC Reference 6 is a good match here, but after 6 years I think I'm finally tiring of its sound. Perhaps a little too "clean" for me. It was a much better pairing with the Ref 3SE phono anyways (which I sold to help afford the Master amps, though I miss it). For now I'm running an old Rogue Athena preamp. I love that thing! Amazing sound for the money. I wish Rogue never came out with the RP line to supersede it. 

mulveling

Owner
@islandmandan 
Thanks!! I know your Tannoy build is custom - did you use the solderless wire clips to the drivers like Tannoy does, or are they hardwired? I think issues caused by these clips are a LOT more prevalent, and may be responsible for cases of Tannoys that don't "sound right". Personally --  one of my Canterbury GR woofers lost its clip connection just 2 months into ownership. I play loud and it got knocked loose lol. Had them tightened up and now, 6 years later, no new incidents. Then the Glenair 10's I bought used from TMR arrived with drivers wired up TOTALLY wrong (LF+ and HF+ swapped at the driver; LF phase reversed at the binding posts, same for BOTH speakers). It was an easy fix, but still -- the fact that such crummy clips are used on these amazing drivers is mind boggling. 

@pehare Thank you :) 

mulveling

Owner
The VAC 300iQ monoblocks absolutely destroy every other amp I've played with, including the VAC 200iQ monos. It's not close. They're the single biggest component upgrade I've ever experienced. They're also the most expensive - but worth it. Had them since December - this system finally feels "done", for a while (again). 

My Master preamp meshes 100% perfectly with the 300iQ monos. I wasn't 100% convinced of the matching between Master preamp & 200iQ monos - with 300iQ, all doubts are now gone. VAC Master is absolutely the best preamp for my system, now. 

At the end of last year I was very close to going all-in on ARC. I had the Reference 3SE phono and Reference 6 preamp - and they worked great together with the 200iQ's, Apollo Darks, or Phison amps! But the 300iQ were such a revelation, they really convinced me that all-VAC was the way to go. So now I'm all-in on VAC, and very happy about it :) 

mulveling

Owner
Current Status (Part 2):
Recently picked up 2 pairs of Audioquest Wildwood speaker cables for a good price (couldn't resist), and have been using them in a double biwire, as a change of pace from the double AQ Everests. Those 2 sets of cables are very similar in geometry and gauge, but the Wildwoods are about 60% silver / 40% copper mix whereas the Everests are 100% silver. The Wildwood mix is really nice - a good balance of the detail from silver and tonal warmth from copper. I think any more copper though, would be too much. With the AQ all-copper cables I always notice a big drop-off from silver in detail. Both sets of cables here are really nice. I'll go back to the Everests at some point to compare. 

Also got a new EAR MC-4 SUT, which I really enjoyed paired with the ARC pre & phono, but somehow a channel has gone out on it. I'm surprised, out of all the components in my system, that a SUT would have a channel go out randomly?! I looked inside and don't see any obviously loose connections. At least I've got warranty on it. For now I'll go back the the old MC-3, which is extremely similar sounding - though I did feel like the newer MC-4 had a slight edge over the MC-3 in sound quality. Kind of sad :( 

And this weekend I *finally* got rid of the old cheap Lovan shelf supporting my AQ 7000 power conditioner and the VAC & turntable PSU's. That thing really bugged me as an eyesore lol. I got a great deal on a used CMS Maxxum amp stand; it's lovely!

Next is to refresh my 15 year old GIK panels to new ones with a nicer looking cloth material. Maybe a silver-gray color?

mulveling

Owner
Current status: I let this get a bit out of control, and have way too much gear haha. My favorite system configurations right now are:

  • Phison A2.120SE amp with ARC Reference 6 pre and ARC Ref 3SE phono, EAR SUT
  • Phison A2.120SE amp with VAC Master pre and VAC Renaissance SE phono, Quadratic SUT
  • VAC 200iQ monos with VAC Master and VAC Ren SE, Quadratic SUT
Between each of these main combos, I can hit the "right" overall sonic balance by matching them to various SUTs and cartridges (differs per combo). The ARC components generally are super clean from top to bottom with just a touch of sweetness in the mids. Powerful bass response , smooth treble. The VAC components have a vivid, gorgeous midrange. VAC's bass and treble are perfectly proportioned to the mids, but I'd classify them as a little less clean there than with ARC. Quite possible it's just revealing nasties in my Tannoys, though - when I recently heard a very similar VAC stack behind Acora Acoustics speakers (excellent speakers!), I thought it sounded cleaner. But I just love the passion of my Tannoys, even if they're not perfect :) 

Other combinations can be very good too (I've tried many) but have various minor imbalances or weaknesses that are a little harder to smooth out. The best of these are:

  • VAC 200iQ's with ARC Ref pre & phono (super clean & smooth sound but a little bit too smoothed up top; needs cartridges to give it sparkle back)
  • VAC 200iQ's with ARC Ref 6 pre & VAC Ren SE phono (all the beautiful vivid VAC midrange, but a little tilted-up in FR)
The reality is once you swap a major component, the optimal cartridge + SUT pairings change. There is an especially striking difference between SUTs like the EAR MC3 / MC4, Quadratic MC-1, and Lundahl LL1931. To be honest, I don't really like the Lundahls in any config. But the EAR vs. Quadratic gives me a LOT of flexibility to find the right match when swapping components.

The chase and experimentation has been equal parts fun and frustrating. Really I'd like to narrow it down and start settling into a new reference system config. We'll see.. 

mulveling

Owner
Many thanks @jond !!

mulveling

Owner
Thanks @islandmandan and @whart - you're both very familiar "faces" on the forums and I really appreciate you!

I'm in Marietta GA. Just down the street from my main dealer, "The Audio Company". Actually I go pick up another CMS platform from them tomorrow :)

mulveling

Owner
Thanks Spencer! Hope you're doing well and enjoying the music.

Yes, the combination of SS amp and tube pre/phono is still quite thrilling here. What's funny is I have two of the Phison A2.120SE stereo (SS) amps, and I've discovered they have slightly different voicings (also slight differences I can see inside). One of them is more sweet & warm - this matches best with the VAC Master pre & VAC Renaissance phono. The other is a bit brighter but also more detailed & dynamic - this matches best with the ARC Ref 6 pre & Ref 3SE phono. Perhaps surprisingly, I find the ARC components a bit more relaxed up top versus VAC, in my system. In either case, both configurations make for fantastic SS / tube hybrid systems. 

The full all-tube VAC stack with 200iQ monos is also superb, with a more liquid-y beautiful midrange than the Phison SS, but man I do miss the bass impact, snap, and speed of that Phison - especially on harder rock and metal. 

Recently I've been going back & forth between the full VAC stack and the Phison / VAC setup. While the ARC-friendly Phison unit is currently out on loan to a friend :) 

I also realize I'd gone down a bad rabbit hole, tube rolling the VAC phono stage too far away from its "proper" voicing. Maybe the RCA 12AX7 were also going bad. Anyways, I've got that resolved now, and it's a fantastic competition against the Ref 3SE. Always a good idea to keep stock VAC tubes on hand, and periodically check your tube rolling adventures against the stock base setup! The stock voicing of VAC is fantastic, and you don't want to stray too far away from that. The phono stage you can get in a lot of trouble because there are 3 pairs you can roll, and vintage 12ax7 have such diversity in sound. 

mulveling

Owner
@lalitk 
I'm definitely feeling the tube preamp + SS power amp vibe lately with my Canterburys. For a while I thought I'd live out my days content with all tubed components lol. 

Static hiss-type noise floor honestly doesn't bother me too much (hum / buzz is different and drives me crazy). I try to minimize it of course, but have a relatively high tolerance. Grunge between notes or increasing with signal level however, I cannot tolerate. I'll look into the Entreq's. Says a lot if it's got you smitten!

I've though about it in the past, but no subs here; I don't really have comfortable space near the speakers for "proper" sized subs. This is also a vinyl-only setup, so I do have concerns of feedback with subs. Everything works perfectly as-is with the Canterbury's natural bass roll-off, never any woofer flapping here :) 

mulveling

Owner
Thanks @ronrags 

Good to hear from you again @lalitk - very interesting report on the Entreq! I've tried grounding my Tannoys in the past, but only with 18AWG copper wire, terminated to spare "-" posts of tube amps. It didn't have much effect that way. It's been a while and I've been meaning to try something again. 

In general - I've enjoyed my VAC 200iQ tube monos for the past several months (and driving myself semi-crazy tube rolling it), but now they're going on sabbatical as I've once again been craving the fast paced, hard hitting, incisive, lightning quick attacking, more aggressive sound of the solid state Phison A2.120SE amp. The 200iQ's slightly soft & rounded bass was getting to me. Especially with the ARC Reference phono & preamp stack now - I just can't get over this Phison amp for pop, hard rock, and metal. And I've been in a rock mood lately :)

The Apollo Dark tube monoblocks are still hanging around; they're also great for rock, just not quite as much as the Phison. The Phison somehow has sweeter mids than the Rogue tube amp, but not quite as sweet as the VAC, obviously. Where the Apollos REALLY excel is large-scale orchestral work, which admittedly I don't listen to a lot of. Simply massive dynamic swings and soundstage there. They clobber both the VAC's and Phison there. So I'm still happy to have these amps too. But actually sort of questioning whether I still need the 200iQ's!

I have a friend trying to organize a group buy on Phison A2.120 SE, the good version (not the v2 ugh), if anyone's interesting in trying out this very unique sounding solid-state. I might order one anodized black. 

mulveling

Owner
@lalitk 
You definitely want the original A2.120SE (v1), NOT the v2. I got a v2 that quite honestly seemed like it was still in the process of being debugged, and all the natural warmth and beauty of the original version was missing. I sent it back and got another v1. Maybe the v2 ends up being great - it sure read like it was going to be great with a CPU-auto regulated bias, more class A bias, and a reworked input stage - but from what I heard in my system, with Canterbury GR, it needs a lot more work to get there. 

mulveling

Owner
Thanks Terry! Good to hear from ya again! And happy to hear you still have those beautiful Kensington GR. I still want a pair even though I wouldn't know where to put them yet. How are your longer-term impressions of Kensington GR vs. Canterbury GR now (despite the different room)? 

I know when I went from Kensington SE to Canterbury SE, it certainly wasn't a cut-and-dried win for the latter. In fact in retrospect, I sort of had a hot day vs. cold day problem with the Canterbury SE, and seemed to be constantly chasing an elusive balance with upstream gear. The Kensington SE was more consistently enjoyable - just a superbly balanced speaker - but when the Canterbury SE had an "on" day it was even more enjoyable. Then when I got the Canterbury GR, I felt it was a big improvement over the SE model. No more hot vs. cold days! Still, I can't help but be curious about the Kensington GR! 

mulveling

Owner
Well, yes and no. Supertweeters have been disconnected for the last few months. A friend lent me a Phison A2 120 amplifier (Danish solid state) around that time, and I have to sheepishly admit I've been blown away. The match between A120 and my Tannoys is clearly superior to that of the push-pull high power tube amps I've been using for years. In fact a single one of these amps (it has bridge and stereo modes) handily bests my pair of VAC 200iQ. I now have a pair of "new improved" A120 on order, and these will come with a new switch to bias heavily into class A (of course at the expense of extra heat). Perhaps I should have revisited solid-state amps a long time ago. I'm not the kind who listens to an endless rotation of Diana Krall, etc - I need a system that's able to rock my head off. 

Anyways, since I've had the A120 in place (long-term loan till the monos arrive), the balance between it, the Tannoys, the new VAC Master preamp, and everything - has been so amazingly perfect I've forgotten all about the tweets. I should give them a try but I can't imagine further improvement there - if not then they go up for sale. The old Canterbury SE model needed supertweets to help fill in the upper range of the main tweeter and increase its tiny sweet spot size, but this deficiency is largely mitigated (if not eliminated) in the GR model. 

Anyways the new VAC Master has worked out splendidly, at least! It's singing so damn beautifully with the A120 amp. 

mulveling

Owner
@lalitk 
Yeah, lots of Tannoy fans seem to love the Gaia's. I see them (reasonably) often now on the Tannoy Facebook groups. Some impressions seem to indicate this can make a big improvement. I'm really tempted. Just wondering whether I can affect the same degree of tilt as in my current setup, or use them on top of the same HRS spacers without having them sliding around during loud listening - I had that problem with the SuperTweeters and had to resort to mild adhesive strips LOL. 

I bought a pristine low-hours Ortofon A90 on a whim, mounted up on my Phantom Supreme. I gotta say, I'm loving it so far! It displays none of the issues/complaints I had with Jubilee MC or Windfeld MC in the past (to be fair those were a LOT of system & source upgrades ago). Sounds almost closer to a supercharged Cadenza Bronze. Both very detailed and very musical.

Also the VAC Master just keeps getting better with tube rolling. The Philips/Holland E88CC were awesome, but now the Amperex/Hollad 7308 raised the bar even further. I was pretty happy even with the Electro Harmonix 6922! Now I'm simply ecstatic about the Master. 

mulveling

Owner
Thank you sir! The feet are a combination of the stock Tannoy cones & brass cups, plus black solid aluminum HRS "spacers" from their nimbus feet. I have a thinner spacer on the 3rd back spike to cause the speakers to slightly tilt upwards so that the dual-concentric horn tweeter is aimed perfectly at my listening position. I'll look into the ISO Acoustics Gaias that people seem to love.

But also I have 3 CMS Black Platinum shelves & spike sets on the way to properly support my amps & the Niagara power conditioner. No more hockey pucks!

mulveling

Owner
NEW PREAMP INBOUND: VAC Master. I have a loaner unit here now (see 2nd pic). I've actually borrowed this same unit last year, and it didn't blow me away. I just had to give it a 2nd try with how much I've loved the Renaissance SE phono and 200iQ amps, and how much everyone raves about this Master. 

So I think I've figured out the culprit was the Amperex 8416 (USA - 1980s?) tubes in this particular loaner. Switched over to simple Electro Harmonix 6922 (stock tubes in the Renaissance V), and WOW. Big, beautiful, rich sound. Either those 8416 were worn and tired, or I just don't like the tube. 

Now I've also got a pair of 1960s Amperex Holland 7308 tubes on the way since I know from past experience those are amazing and should beat the EH in detail while retaining all sweetness. 

The ARC Reference 6 was really an amazing preamp and reliable partner for 4 years. Superbly balanced and musical from top to bottom. Awesome for rock and heavy metal, too. It's just slightly *slightly* dry in the midrange compared to VAC. Almost like the little bit of transistors in the circuit path are making their presence known. Anyways, I still fear that I might feel a tinge of regret selling the Ref 6, but the VAC Master has really won me over and long-term relationships with VAC gear is a good place to be as an audiophile!

mulveling

Owner
NEW AMPS inbound. VAC Signature 200iQ monoblocks. I've been auditioning a loaner pair for 2 weeks. I wouldn't say they're quite "night & day" better than the Apollo Darks - but there are several key areas they improve on and/or clean up compared to the Rogues, which adds up to a very significant cumulative effect. 

Mids are more organic and beautiful (less dry). Imaging is much more 3D, soundstage is bigger, with stage depth quite notably increased. The top end is super clean and has removed a tinge of glare and harshness that had been a bit too forward on average recordings - without reducing perceived detail (actually increasing perceived detail since it's a more pleasant listen). The dynamics and bottom end are subjectively more powerful and exhilarating, despite actually having less Wattage power (200 vs 275+). The net result is a better connection to the music, with delineation of layers and details increased in a way that serves musical enjoyment, rather than leading down the path of analysis or boredom (not that I felt this about the system before).

And I haven't even rolled the 200iQ's 6SN7 tubes yet. I rolled the hell out of the Apollo's small tubes, and felt I had improved its performance significantly over stock. 

The Apollos were great amps for me, almost 10 years now (my first pair being the original version, followed by the "Dark" version 2 years ago), but I think it was finally time to move on and match the rest of the system which has changed quite a lot in that same time period. Like the VAC Reference SE phono, these 200iQ's are a piece that instantly felt "right" when plopped into my Canterbury GR system.

Still using the Audio research REF 6 as my preamp. I recommend getting an audition of the 200iQ amps if you're able!

mulveling

Owner
Wow thanks for your comments pdreher, it means a lot to me!

As for the Tannoys - I was relatively new to high end audio in early 2000s when I heard Tannoy for the first time, and they blew my mind (even though just the modest Eyris DC3 model). Coming from high-end headphones, I missed the coherence of a single driver that the Tannoy dual-concentric point source driver uniquely and fully delivered - this was at a time when I feel many other speaker options failed badly at this. Now of course, things have moved on and many of the modern high end speakers I hear today have excellent coherence and integration, even with separate drivers. However, it's hard to separate from first love so I'm still sticking with Tannoy for the long haul. And yes, the efficiency is a huge advantage. An honest 96 dB per Watt here! Tannoy hasn't remained static either, as I enjoy the GR series Canterbury a lot more than the prior SE series.

Tannoy looks to be doing OK under the new ownership, though there was worry for a while that they'd either eliminate the Prestige series or move its production to China. Seems to have stabilized, and Kevin Deal (from Upscale Audio) just recently picked up distributorship for Tannoy, so I think (and hope) he sells a boatload of them!

mulveling

Owner
Koetsu Blue Lace with Diamond Cantilever is the BOMB. Unambiguously the best cartridge I've ever heard. The diamond cantilever raises detail, speed and dynamics of Koetsu to a next level, without pulling it towards analytical. In fact, this change actually allows MORE of the famous Koetsu musicality to pour through the speakers. Added in March of this year. Mounted on the FR64S (this arm is now clearly superior to the Graham Phantom Supreme for Koetsus). I've also switched my SUT to the Choir Audio unit based on Hashimoto HM-7. My EAR MC-3 and Koetsu SUT (pictured here atop the VAC) also sound great with the Blue Lace, but the Hashimoto sounds HUGE with lifelike dynamics. Another change is rolling tubes in the VAC phono: 1 pair Mazda 12ax7 chrome plates (my favorite), 1 pair RCA black plates 12ax7, 1 pair Mullard reissue 12ax7 - this results in a tonal balance similar to the stock tubes, but with enhanced detail, 3D imaging, and bass impact. If it weren't for my need to closely track the stock tonal balance (because that works well with my system), I'd have all 6 Mazda chromes in there - and the Mullard pair is there because it's warm enough to counter the Mazda's top end (otherwise, it's a serviceable but not stellar tube). Stock tubes were VAC's selected PentaLabs (Chinese) 12ax7. The latest system pic shows a Rogue RP-9 preamp on the bottom rack shelf, but I still use the ARC REF 6 as my primary preamp. I'm also back to the Shelter Harmony on a Clearaudio Universal 12" for my 2nd arm, which I try to mix in to save hours on Koetsu - I haven't been very successful at this, however! As good as the Harmony/Universal combo is (for a while I was going back & forth between this and the non-Diamond Koetsu stone bodies), the Blue Lace just takes everything to another level. 

Absolute sonic heaven with any halfway decent record!!

mulveling

Owner
Thanks for the tube recs, guys. It's been some years, and I've optimized and changed everywhere else, so the tube blend could use a revisit. Sylvania TM BP 5751 are certainly one of those variants I should've tried by now. The 1960s Slyvania 5751 gray plates are just awful, but given my experience with Sylvania 12BH7 I know that the 1950s BPs can sound a world away from the terrible 60s GPs.

For several weeks now I've settled in with the Koetsu Coralstone mounted & dialed-in on the Fidelity Research FR64S tonearm. This is without question the finest vinyl reproduction I've ever had, by some margin. The pairing is legendary for good reason. Since I've switched from the Graham Phantom II Supreme, I've been appreciating the 64S's difference even more with time. The Koetsu sounds much more robust, dynamic, impactful, and vivid on the 64S. It wasn't bad on the Graham, but in retrospect too polite and laid back. Imaging is also notably more 3D and holographic on the 64S. I'll be posting the Graham up for sale. I've also switched the Shelter Harmony from Clearaudio Universal 12" to a Fidelity Research FR64fx. Still evaluating this arm swap. It sounds excellent, but the performance gap to the 64S / Coralstone is readily apparent - the latter is just far too good compared to anything else I've ever heard. It feels much more believable as a performance rather than just a recording reproduction!

Almost forgot to mention I switched from the Bob's Devices Sky 40 to an E.A.R. MC-3 step-up for the Koetsu. That was also a significant move in the right direction! Very sweet sounding. The arm & SUT changes have effected such a large leap in performance; I feel kinda stupid for letting things be so held back for so long!

I now have a Blue Lace with diamond cantilever on the way, and I'm eager to see if this can exceed the boron Coralstone on 64S.

mulveling

Owner
Thanks @lalitk !
My weekend evenings/nights (my highest priority down-time) have been dominated by listening sessions since the big upgrades. It's what I look forward to each week; well worth the very large expense!

Congrats on your new Canterbury, I hope you'll love them as much as I do. Do you have the GR or an earlier model? I am still using the REF6 w/ Apollo Darks - it's a good combo, but I know well that nothing's perfect. I've run through a few high quality preamps: Rogue Hera II, REF 6, VAC Renaissance V. Settled on the REF6 - though I think the VAC clearly had the best midrange, it couldn't keep up with hard rock and heavy metal music like the ARC. The downside of the ARC is that it's perhaps a slight bit aggressive and forward up top. The Hera II sounded good, but had way too high a noise floor for these very sensitive Tannoys. That said, ideally I'd like something with the gorgeous mids of the VAC that can still rock - I'm just not extremely motivated to go looking yet. The feature set, digital volume, and balance controls of the ARC are absolutely perfect; I can't stand dealing with motorized analog volume controls like the VAC has, and it will be hard to go back to that.

I haven't tried another amp since I fell in love with the original Apollo back several years ago. Given the massive upgrades I've made upstream, I really, really should start looking again. I'll probably start by borrowing a VAC Signature 200iQ from my dealer. It'll be very interesting to hear the results - along with Koetsu and Tannoy, the Apollos have been the only other constant of my system this decade. And I want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious.

mulveling

Owner
Ok, turns out I'm still a bit of a JUNKIE. Got a brand new Herron VTPH-2A phono stage I'm about to go pick up. I'm certainly not expecting it to displace the VAC Renaissance SE in the main system (so awesome sounding but hurt the wallet bad at 14.4K), but I am expecting it to beat my Rogue Ares Magnum in the Stax setup. I've got a nice new Shelter Accord breaking in on that Stax setup, already sounding about good enough to displace the Ortofon Cadenza Bronze I've had there. This should be fun. I'll give the Herron a whack in the main setup, too.

mulveling

Owner
Hi @shadorne 
Thanks man for your comments - yes, surely I am done now! Haha, I've said that so many times before. But this is truly the system I've had, far beyond all predecessors, that makes me constantly thirst to consume music on it. Loving every hour, and I've also significantly ramped up my record buying again.

I'm currently playing with a VAC Renaissance V preamp as competition for the ARC Ref 6. They're very different beasts. The VAC has a shockingly beautiful midrange. But then the ARC is much better for rock and heavy metal. It's going to be a difficult choice between the two - wish I could keep both and flip a switch between records. 

As for 12AX7 - after RCA black plates I started using Telefunken, which are simply all-around excellent (both smooth plates and ribbed plates). But then I finally found my real "holy grail" 12AX7, which is the Mazda (France) silver/chrome plates. Anything I can stick these in benefits to the order of another small component upgrade. They won't warm up a system though, if you're trying to combat brightness. 

mulveling

Owner
This is it, brohs. I've now upgraded almost EVERYTHING I had since summer 2017, excepting 3 power cords and 1 pair of AQ Kilimanjaro speaker cables. This is no longer a true "ever evolving" system, but reasonably a "done for now". The sonic gains have been HUGE. My last big piece is the VAC Renaissance "Special Edition" phono stage. Absolutely stunning when paired with the Audio Research Ref 6 linestage!

Well...I shall continue to partake in the amusement/joy/frustration of various tweaks. E.g. cable swaps, vinyl minutiae. For example: the Lundhal LL1931 MC step-up transformers (built into the VAC phono) render a shockingly transparent, open, airy, and crystalline sonic image. Whereas my outboard Bob's Devices Sky is fleshy, impactful, ballsy, and completely seductive in the mids. I find the Koetsu Coralstone pairs naturally with the Sky (I generally prefer the two-of-a-kind approach, rather than balancing fire with ice, etc), and Shelter Harmony with the LL1931. I might want to try the silver-wired LL1931Ag or 1933Ag, and see what that get me. 

I've added system photos going back to 2011 to show the upgrade process over the years.

-- Mike

mulveling

Owner
Thanks @mjcmt ! I've been enjoying the upgraded sound immensely. Almost every weekend night now consists of me and the girlfriend having a long (and loud!) listening session to 3 or 4 AM. The effect of the new CMS rack, providing a perfect platform for the TT, has been awesome. 

I've slowly started to love a new (to me) Audio Research REF 6 preamp over my old Hera II. It looks great in black too! So that'll be a keeper now, after initially flirting with its sale. And I'm still tweaking with cable upgrades and damping tweaks, of course. Running AQ Wild Blue Yonder ICs now, but will be upgrading to all WEL Signature in the next month. The speaker cables have been upgraded to a double-run Kilimanjaro biwrie.

mulveling

Owner
Holy cow, I just dusted off my half-broken, dust caked, taped-up Nikon D40 (circa 2004) and retook some pics -- makes the iPhone 6 pics look like trash. I guess I should've expected that, even with just the cheapo kit lens (broken autofocus) on the Nikon. At the end of the day, the high tech phones are handicapped by teeny-tiny sensors and lenses. I've updated recent photos to the D40 takes.

I'm enjoying both my headphone and speaker setups so much -- elated is a better word. It was a long journey to here, and at many points I was ready to give it up. Man, so many missteps that wasted time and money. But in the end, it's worth it.

The AQ Wind interconnect is the last cable I've bought, hopefully for a while. In the BHSE & Stax 009 headphone setup, it's about on par with the old version 1 Sky, actually perhaps a little bit better, because the Wind's ruthless detail retrieval and speed is exactly in line with both the BHSE and Stax 009 -- and the cumulative result is amazing. On the Tannoy speakers, the Sky is the clear winner over the Wind -- the Sky just has that wonderful spatial imaging, that touch of warmth, and effortless musical flow that makes is such an unusual and awesome silver cable. It's going to be very system dependent whether you prefer Sky (version 1) or Wind, and it worked out nicely for me with my 2 setups. The Wind is a more "modern", technical sound though. And it's stiff as hell -- hard to wrestle into place, even if you have adequate length on it. And the old AQ XLR plugs are easier to use and nicer to look at than the new ones. But both are great cables.

Enjoy your systems, and enjoy music guys!

mulveling

Owner
Haven't checked in here in a while. Lately I've been investing heavily on "finishing touches" while keeping the core system components fixed -- as I believe they might very well represent my end game. These core components have been in place now for at least a few years each (well, phono stage maybe only 2 years). But I've been surprised by just how much of a positive difference has been made by further tube rolling and upgraded cabling. It's not at all subtle. The changes:

  • Phono Cartridge
    My beloved Onyx Platinum finally bit the dust at the hands of a drunk girlfriend. Fortunately I got about 5 years of amazing play out of it (sparingly/caringly used). While it's off to Japan for a rebuild, I bought a brand new Coralstone -- it's amazing! Definitely my favorite Koetsu stone body, and it's not even burned in yet. The Coralstone is pure Koetsu in the midrange, but adds a lot more power in the bass vs. even the other stones. A wonderfully balanced cartridge that was obviously designed as a pure musical pleasure machine -- if you still analyze the sound after installing a Coralstone, then medical science hasn't yet invented powerful enough drugs to help you (I'll pray for your soul).
  • Cables
    I like how Audioquest cables are relatively neutral and smooth sounding. But the AQ cables I had were either far from the top line or from older generations, so I've been making significant moves upwards (via used market). Each upgrade has yielded some nice gains:

    Phono
    First came the phono cable, which I upgraded from LeoPard to Wild LP. This was an immediately significant improvement. Soundstage has greater depth and the sound quality overall has a more lifelike dynamic impact. The LeoPard phono cable, like its Cheetah sibling, has a mild flattening effect on both of these aspects, and also can be slightly aggressive in the upper mids & treble (completely absent in the Wild LP). This upgrade was so satisfying that I continued upgrading other cables.

    Speakers
    Next was speaker cabling, for which I've long run a biwire of 6' Mont Blanc low and 7.5' KE-4 high. A couple years ago, this combination performed quite well against a dealer loaner pair of 8' Redwood (biwire) -- the Redwood sounded slightly smoother, and my cabling had a bit more sparkle on top. Overall I decided the Redwood was the slightly better cable, but not by enough to convince me to spend a LOT of money on them (list on that pair was over $8K!!). I recently snagged a gorgeous Kilimanjaro 6' pair here on audiogon, and did a night of comparison with 3 new configurations: Kili alone (all solid silver 12 awg), Kili high & Mont Blanc low (half silver, half copper for a total 9 awg), Kili low and KE-4 high (all solid silver 10 awg). It wasn't even close; the Kili & Mont Blanc combo smoked the rest, and beat my old Mont Blanc + KE-4 arrangement. Based on this, I'd say that this particular biwire represents an excellent value on the used market, as sonically it should be positioned at least at the midpoint of AQ's current Redwood and Wild Wood models -- with very similar metal content and the same geometry. The only problem is that Kilimanjaros are quite rare, and then you'd also have to find a Mont Blanc of similar length, or have it cut by AQ to match. I could also speculate that a biwire of KE-4 (used) and GO-4 or CV-4 would also be an excellent value biwire that would compete with the current AQ Meteor model for a much lower price. I'll also note that I was surprised to prefer the copper/silver combination over the pure silver configurations, since I tend to prefer all silver in interconnects. 

    Interconnects
    And finally, interconnects. I've long used a Sky 1m RCA (1st version) from phono stage to pre, and that's safe for now, as it's still a great sounding cable -- it was the first silver cable I heard that was exceedingly smooth and almost warm in tonality, with speed and detail like silver plus great bass like copper. So first I looked at the Colorado 0.5m RCA running from SUT to phono stage -- because of the way SUTs work, this is a especially critical interconnect that should NOT exceed 0.5m in length. The Colorado is a very good cable, with a great 3D image and good speed/detail, but not quite like silver's speed. They're also a little on the warm side. So I snagged an AQ Niagara 0.5m RCA (audiogon). Again, this yielded a VERY nice gain. Though the staging didn't notably improve over the Colorado (I feel this was the Colorado's strong point), the speed definitely improved, and -- as a pleasant surprise -- the weight and density of the musical image increased significantly with the Niagara. As with AQ Sky, the Niagara didn't impart any brightness or hardness to my system. I was so impressed by its value over the Colorado, that I've ordered a Wind 1m XLR (i.e. the newer generation of Niagara) to replace the Colorado I have between preamp and monoblocks. Also I've used AQ Cheetah cables in the past, but found the Colorado to be slightly superior overall (better 3D staging, and more natural sounding). Based on this, the Niagara is quite an improvement over the prior generation Cheetahs. The Cheetah was a really good cable, but I feel both Colorado and Niagara now represent a better value on the used market than Cheetahs.

  • Headphones
    I've been loving the Stax SR-009 headphones since I first heard them a few years ago. I use mine by my iMac -- so my speakers are vinyl source only, and headphones are digital only. First I upgraded my digital source from the NAD M51/Eximus DP-1 to a Schiit Yggdrasil. A very good upgrade, for a very reasonable cash outlay. Then I got a Head-amp Blue Hawaii SE amplifier, stocked with vintage Mullard tubes. I easily prefer this amp over my KGSShv Carbon. And it's way better than a "plain" KGSShv. The only amp I've heard that beats the BHSE is a DIY T2 (which I can't get). I also got a nice pair of AQ Sky 1m XLR interconnects, which is worthy of the BHSE. And I run the Yggy via an Audiophilleo 2 w/ Pure Power to coax, because I think that the Yggy's USB input absolutely sucks (bright and light on bass). 

  • Tubes
    Mazda 12AX7 chrome plates; phono stage and monoblocks. What an amazing tube; they gave my system a significant step forward in sound. In my system, these absolutely destroy every other legendary 12AX7. The Telefunken ribbed plates take 2nd place, but it's not very close. I also continue using 1950s Sylvania black plate 12BH7 in place of 12AU7 -- another very significant sub, though not quite as much as the Mazda 12AX7. The Mazda chrome plate 3-mica 6189 takes 2nd place here (and they are fairly close). Russian KT-120 fill out the Apollo monoblocks, and 6N30pi for the Hera II pre. For these, vintage alternatives are too costly as I require 3 quads of KT120 and 2 quads of 6N30.

  • TODO
    Based on the wait time I had for my Phantom II Supreme, and on my less-than-stellar perception of their customer service. I definitely won't be sending it in for upgrade. But I have been eyeing the new Graham Phantom III or Elite 10" arm-wands. They have upgraded internal cabling (might as well, since I've upgraded all other cables), and the Elite is a more substantial wand. The Coralstone deserves the best.  

    I might consider continuing to upgrade cables, though anything beyond this level gets VERY expensive in the AQ lineup, even used. I'm interested to see which I prefer between the old version 1 Sky versus the new Wind (1 level below Sky but 2 generations newer). If the Wind is victor, I may look into replacing my Skys.

    I want to explore tube vibration control, via Herbie's dampers. Also the phono stage might benefit from an isolation platform -- I have vibrapods under it now. 

    I have never addressed power cabling or conditioning in my systems. Not sure I wanna go there, yet.

mulveling

Owner
Haha, I know the "stupid enough to still want X" theme very well. But as a member of working middle class, I also knew I eventually had to pick a stopping point.
Here it is, for me! Salamander gear looks great and is well-constructed. In fact the stands under my monoblocks are Salamander (Synergy media rack top shelf plus polished
aluminum claw feet); I keep forgetting about that, but I love 'em.

My dealer has been fantastic to me, and for the last couple years he's been pushing the Critical Mass Systems racks. But with their pricing, I'm just never gonna go for that!
Rack resale value is horrific, and that's very relevant to me. And also, if I could hear more from my TT with better isolation, I'm confident the Stax SR-009 w/ KGSShv would
reveal it, but it doesn't!

mulveling

Owner
Thanks Schubert. A Lovan Sovereign (3 modules, 7") that's basically hollow steel sheet tubes and MDF shelves (rosewood look) - had it nearly 10 years
now.

Definitely nothing special, but it's nicely rigid, looks OK, and I've filled its legs with lead shot. The TT also now has a nice maple platform under it, built
by a local friend of mine. In combination with moving it all right up against the wall (floor is more rigid there too), I've gotten pretty effective isolation
for cheap. A check on the Stax headphones doesn't reveal any major shortcomings of it (with regards to acoustic feedback), at least. That combined with
the financial fatigue from 10+ years of audiophiling...means I won't be spending a ton of cash on a new audiophile rack. Seems that lots of the nice
ones run 12K and up (way up) for a few shelves, geez!

mulveling

Owner
DONE.
Been listening more lately, with the Sonic Frontiers Phono 1 SE+ still in place for phono stage. I'm gonna call this system DONE. There will be no more
component evolution here, save for maintenance and perhaps the occasional cable swap.

Not sure I believe in cap break-in, but for whatever reason -- maybe responding to improved isolation for my TT, or maybe the introduction of Amperex
6DJ8 in combination with Siemens -- this Phono 1 (V-Caps from the SE+ upgrades) has developed unbelievable midrange, treble, stereo image and depth. In
these crucial areas it's now a full level ahead of the other 2 stages I was swapping -- which were a Hagerman Trumpet and Rogue Ares, both used with Bob's
Devices 1131 SUT. The SF is as quiet as the Trumpet, quieter than the Ares. The SF bass (extension and impact) lags behind that of the other 2, but it's very
clean bass, more than acceptable in light of its other strengths.

The SF midrange is so clean and palpable; it imparts the sensation of warmth without actually being warm. The treble is silky smooth without dulling detail or
sparkle -- the Ares was actually a bit strident by comparison.

I'm also still loving the Stax headphones w/ KGSShv amp and NAD M51 (iMac/USB transport). This final speaker rig has pulled ahead of the headphone setup
again, but I sill immensely enjoy each session with either Stax, never feeling like I'm being cheated or settling for a lesser experience. They've also been
extremely instructive towards what clean treble, mids, and bass SHOULD sound like. Sometimes I flirt with the idea of a Headamp Blue Hawaii SE (which I've
heard a number of times now; awesome amp), but honestly the KGSShv is right about there for a lot less money. Still, maybe...

mulveling

Owner
Thanks Gerulaz -- I was just admiring your Mission Pilastro setup the other day. Absolutely gorgeous, and I would never have known they existed!

I suppose it's far too harsh to say I'm unhappy with the table. My analog setup has taken a significant step forward in sound quality since I upgraded from the SOTA Star; I'm very happy with the sound quality and looks of the Clearaudio. The vacuum on my old SOTA lost its seal with age, so the clamping solution with my Innovation is wonderful (but again -- $2300 for 5 lbs of steel?). It's just that there's a couple of minor details/issues that I'm miffed about existing at this price point. Coupled with perhaps a tinge of buyer's remorse from spending beyond what should have been my "budget".

The motor whine seems to be inherent to the design of the Innovation motor; I've observed it on the dealer's other units, and have conversed online with another owner who hears it too. I think it's specific to that very small, high-torque motor. The whine is at a high frequency and low level, so some folks may not hear it at all. And probably not in a showroom with any ambient noise. I can hear it an night in silence, though admittedly it's a non-issue in my seating position with the needle dropped. It's just that we can buy $300 tables without audible whine, so why was this detail overlooked at $11K?

mulveling

Owner
System edited: Updated gear and cleared out all the uninteresting cruft (e.g. cables and acoustic panels) so that the structure of the system isn't quite so buried in meaningless details. And since I've lived with every component here for between 1-5 years (3 years
average), I felt bold enough to add some more candid thoughts under the description of each piece. The system is sounding GREAT. It's been a long and slow process of tweaking and dialing-in, with many ups and downs (remind me to NEVER sell the Sonic
Frontiers again), but it's worth it. I haven't listed my headphone gear yet, but I've become enamored with high-end Stax gear (SR-009, SR-007, KGSShv), which is really serving as a nice complement/alternative to my Tannoy love-fest on the speaker side. I'm very
much a huge fan of the transducers from Tannoy, Stax, and Koetsu. And also VERY much a huge fan of the Kevin Gilmore designed headphone amps (of which there are many) -- and which he donates to the community FOR FREE.

And there's still no nighttime neighbors to piss off :)

mulveling

Owner
Jmohd,
I have not heard the Wilson Sasha -- you may be confusing me with Tom :)

mulveling

Owner
I listened to them only a couple times in a friend's setup, but they were super once dialed in; natural warmth and natural sound, with excellent articulation. No harshness or hardness to be found. Excellent speakers at moderate listening levels; a really nice experience. Worked great with the high-end BAT gear.

If I had a 2nd audio room it might be fun to tinker with a Harbeth setup, that is if the inner Tannoy & high-efficiency fanboy in me would allow such a thing.

In my current setup, the 86dB efficiency vs. 96dB thing is a big deal since I have a large-ish room like to go quite loud at times. I also like running without a subwoofer, and I've been a fan of the dual-concentric for so long now that it's just darn hard to adapt to anything else.

I'm loving the Canterbury SE; they've opened up beautifully since accumulating some hours (slowly, on my schedule). Bass quality is superb (once ports and electronics are dialed in), which runs counter to the typical prejudice upon seeing those 15" woofers and fat cabinets! They were thick and wooly out of the box and (especially) until you get those tweeters firing up at ear level. Now the balance is dialed in about perfect; the smaller Kensington SE had a surplus of energy up top (in a larger room like mine) so I'd been fighting in the different direction for so long.

mulveling

Owner
Musicophile,
I've always been curious about both SET amps and Manley amps. EveAnna, the head of Manley, runs Tannoy Churchills (as per their website).

BTW I've listened to the Churchill Wideband in a friend's setup, and the dynamics are just nuts! Though, I do prefer the midrange sweetness/wetness of the Prestige line. Hooking the Churchills up with el84, el34, or SET (i.e. fat wet midrange) might make for a really nice combo, but then I certainly don't mind pairing a fat midrange amp up with sweet-midrange speakers, either. A dry/analytical sound is NOT in the cards for me!

mulveling

Owner
BTW -- happy New Year to all us audio & music aficionados!

mulveling

Owner
I've driven the Kensington SE with 25 Watt/ch vintage amps, and from that I recognize that low-power tubes (even push-pull) have a certain magic to the sound. It can be enthralling. However, it will start to distort and then clip on the peaks of recordings with a higher crest factor -- unless you're in a small room and/or listen strictly at moderate levels. I've got a fairly large room, and like to listen loud. Though, at 93dB/Watt, many pop/rock recordings with little dynamic range still don't need much power at all to knock your ears off (25 Watts was more than ample for me there; 9 Watts would probably do). Folks with parameters in the other direction can get away with a lot less power, especially when those meager few Watts are sounding so glorious.

If you can religiously keep the volume levels moderate with an engaging speaker like the Tannoy alnico/pepperpot, then I salute you sir/madame :)

Otherwise, it's a balancing act: do you care more about pursuing the holy grail of tone/midrange, or soul-crushing dynamics? Either -- and many spots in-between -- can yield superb results. The gear-chase results from an attempt to attain both. Ideally we should be satisfied with the Tannoys plus a solid amp that plays toward our particular preference within this spectrum. Unfortunately, for some of us this preference is a moving target :/

I've got to admit, sometimes I'd like to try a lower power tube amp again in my setup now that I'm running the 96 dB/Watt Canterbury SE.

mulveling

Owner
System edited: Added pics taken today.

mulveling

Owner
Big upgrade: just dropped in a pair of Tannoy Canterbury SE!

They're what I was looking for: same Tannoy pepperpot/alnico midrange, a coherent & integrated sound top to bottom, with substantially more bass/dynamics/scale than the Kensington can deliver in a room this size. In fact, it would take some serious doing for *anything* to touch the dynamics and impact here.

This is what an honest 96dB/Watt w/ 28Hz extension looks like -- it's HUGE -- it has to be! As expected, the 3dB efficiency increase is huge. Small number changes on paper (they're also spec'd to only extend 1Hz lower); big result in real life. Sounds "live" at a much lower volume setting.

With the Kensington I was working to keep brightness in check and coax as much bass response as possible. Warm tubes were used liberally. With these, I'll be going in a different direction: keep the bass in check; coax out a bit more treble (or rather, start undoing all the warm tubes I'd stuffed everywhere). The variable ports are awesome; so far it's sounding like all closed is the way to go!

mulveling

Owner
Aronsss,
I've actually moved from the Ares to the built-in phono of the VAC Renaissance III, but -- as good as that VAC is -- I'm kinda wishing I'd kept the Ares around. I think a lot of the difference (besides tubes) may come down to the step-ups used (I think the VAC uses Lundahl); I wish I'd ordered my Ares with the blue 1131. I may try the 1131 at some point. I'm lucky in that I can always borrow an Ares to give it a 2nd crack :) Before the VAC, the Ares clobbered my previous stages (Sonic Frontiers Phono 1, Benz PP-1, PS Audio GCPH).

For my tastes, the Rogue gear is sometimes voiced a touch too analytical/SS sounding with the stock tubes, but responds like crazy (in a good way) to NOS signal tubes -- and the Ares is a perfect example of this. In contrast, rolling with the VAC tends to be somewhat frustrating -- it retains its character pretty strongly.

Was not a fan of the late-production JAN-Phillips 5814A my Ares shipped with. I ended up running the first-version RCA black plate 12BH7, which is a gorgeous sounding tube if you require some warmth. Unfortunately, it's almost impossible to find quiet-enough examples of that tube specimen, but I did. If you only need a little warmth, the later RCA black plate foil/square getter 12BH7A are the ticket; if warmth is not required, the black plate Tung-Sol 12BH7A is quite good. Any of these 12BH7 beat the heck out of the 12AU7 RCA cleartops or GE & Phillips 5814 I'd tried, but do be prepared to weed out plenty of microphonic 12BH7 tubes. The stock Ares can supply the extra 0.6A heater current that the 12BH7 will require.

For 12AX7, I really liked a pair of mid/late 1950's RCA black tall plate 12AX7A. These tubes impart a touch of warmth (not too much) without sacrificing any detail, and are beautifully musical. Preferred these to the usual Tele & Mullard suspects. If I felt the need to brighten things up a touch (which I almost never do), then the Teles would have been a good choice. Didn't ever try 5751 in those 12AX7 slots (note: the Apollos LOVE the 5751).

mulveling

Owner
Dammit - I've got to stop underestimating the Rogue Hera preamp. Just when I thought that the VAC Renaissance III w/ phono was clobbering it - and it was indeed beating the Hera + Ares phono combo - lately I've been using the Hera II fed from the VAC's MC phono stage, and that beats all. It doesn't make a lot of sense that the VAC's built-in phono beats Rogue's best standalone phono, while the Hera II line stage beats the VAC line stage - but that's what's happened in my system.

Perhaps the Hera needed burn-in after its upgrade to II status; but then, the VAC was burning in too. And let me say, the system sounded off by SEVERAL notches while the Hera was off for upgrades and I dropped a discrete class A solid state preamp in its place. That experience renewed my appreciation for a fine tubed preamp (for which the VAC certainly qualifies).

At this point, I kind of feel like the Hera II is the finest electronic (non-transducer) component in my system.

mulveling

Owner
Actually, as far as the ear-test goes, there's more bass energy at any other location in those pictures -- which implies too close to a wall boundary and/or speaker. It's a good suggestion to move the table WAY out of frame & elsewhere (say 15-25 feet; my friend Tom did so with his system), but I do like having the gear where it's at; it's well protected from foot traffic...not that there's too much traffic, but for the occasional possibly-clueless guest.

mulveling

Owner
Robertwolfee,
I've never used SET; certainly that represents a huge hole in my audio experience. Their theory holds much appeal, but I have in fact (rarely) run a robust 55 Watts/ch PP tube amp into clipping, and found that a vintage 35 Watts/ch PP was notably easier to clip (more than you'd think from a ~2dB difference).

The 250+ Watt/ch Apollos have easily handled any dynamic range of material -- at any sane volume -- that I've thrown at them.

I've heard the Yorkminster SE right next to my Kensington SE, and was surprised at what a difference that +2dB of efficiency made; with >= 95dB/Watt I'd feel a WHOLE lot more confident in looking at SET amps. In my listening sessions with present gear, I still preferred the rich mids of the Kensington over the Yorkminster (though the Yorkminster's bass was clearly far superior)...so perhaps Yorkminsters + SET would be quite close to (if not a dead lock on) my ideal. Too bad the Yorkminster's looks just rub me the wrong way.

I think the long-term plan for now would be to eventually get the Canterbury SE, which are 96dB and FAR prettier than the Yorkminster :) Then, at some point after that, I'll likely need to scratch that SET itch.

Oh, also -- I've switched to a VAC Renaissance III preamp + phono. The buit-in phono is amazing, and the unit's midrange is incredibly smooth and clean. Met Kevin Hayes of VAC too -- just a top flight company, there.

mulveling

Owner
Thanks guys!

Hoa,
Those are GIK Acoustics Tri-Traps in the corners and GIK 242 panels on the front wall. Excellent acoustic effectiveness, extremely reasonably priced, and though not premium in build quality they don't look terrible. Since I bought mine they now offer premium cloths/colors. I might check and see if they have a good match to the Tannoy's tweed grills...though the plain off-white does blend in to the walls.

Yeah, the Kensington SE are magic once you get the right gear behind them - but therein lies a challenge, as despite their musicality they are deceivingly revealing/resolving and every tube/component change will be heard LOUD AND CLEAR. They've actually made my gear habit worse this past 2.5 years.

Nice that you have Tannoys AND Harbeths. Lots of British audio WIN in your home!

mulveling

Owner
System edited: Much experimenting with tube rolling. Haven't yet run into an RCA black plate - of 12AX7, 5751, and 12BH7 - that I don't like...and certain variants in particular are just lovely. Also liking the Mullard long-plate 12AX7 and Tung-Sol 12BH7. Not a fan of any 12AU7 yet. Ditched the EH KT90 for the new-ish KT120. NICE improvement there. The KT90 were just too forward up top. KT120 is nice and balanced; silky smooth from mids through treble, and with even more powerful bass. Still haven't convinced myself that the 6H30-DR are worth trying (@ $200 a pop times 8).

mulveling

Owner
Thegoodarcher,
Man, I haven't checked this thread in a while - sorry for the way delayed reply. I used an Atlas (not even magnum) before the Apollos, and I know the Cronus you've got sounds really sweet.

I've had the Ares for more than a few months, and it actually took me a while to warm up to it. The problem is that I'd been using a Sonic Frontiers Phono 1 - clearly better than even the GCPH - but it was adding a touch of warmth to my system. That was kind of compensating for the crappy stock EH 12AX7 small signal-tubes I'd been using in my Apollos.

I finally put some nice NOS tubes in 12AX7 and 12AU7 positions on the Apollos (ended up with 12BH7A in place of the 12AU7). Then, I put some RCA 12AU7 cleartops in the Ares. The Ares still ONLY has EH 12AX7 (soon to be rectified), but already it's clearly the most resolving stage I've had yet. Killer bass and dynamics. Very clean & neutral; I'm sure I can tune it further by finally swapping those 12AX7s. The SF is running a quad super nice JAN Amperex 7308, and it's still getting beat. Loving that Ares - and I must remember to never cheap out on small-signal tube rolling in the future!

mulveling

Owner
System edited: Updated system. Hera preamp is off to Rogue for upgrading to version II+ status. In the meantime I'm left with a little SS headphone amp (with preamp outputs) - despite being a real nice headamp it SUCKS compared to the Hera. Really was starting to take that thing for granted, and it should be even better when it gets back. Next...is it even worth it to gamble some $1.6K for an octet of 6H30-DR supertubes in this preamp?

mulveling

Owner
System edited: Added my reel-to-reel tape deck to system. I LOVE the sound of the damned thing but it's a bit of a PITA. Sometimes the left channel cuts in/out intermittently - it think it may be happening after the unit is fully warmed up. Or perhaps it's somewhat tape-dependent...or maybe both! The RCA jacks are also WAY TOO CLOSE together. I don't have any RCA cables with barrels skinny enough to fit well. Finally hooked it up again, a couple nights ago - first time with the Apollos. It's definitely worth putting up with (for now), for the sound and the needledrop music I've got on Maxell tapes. I've been looking forward to every night I'm at home, so I can go through more LPs and tapes!

mulveling

Owner
Thanks Jerico!

I've been very impressed with the GCPH. It's dead neutral, resolving, about as smooth as I've heard from Solid-State gear. It's better than my Benz PP-1 (at least on Ortofon carts - I used to have a Glider L2, hence the Benz), for less money. The XLR outputs are a nice plus with a preamp like the Athena/Hera. At $700 new - how can you argue with that?

The only reason I haven't bought this GCPH from my dealer, is that I'm impatiently anticipating the soon-to-be-released Rogue Ares phono stage ($2K MSRP). It's going to be an AD797 step-up plus a tube MM stage of four 12AT7 tubes. It would be nice to have an all-Rogue system (I'll be asking for fancy metal feet to match to Hera/Apollo, heh). I've previously tried the Rogue Stealth and loved the voicing, but it wasn't as resolving nor as quiet as the PP-1. If the Ares fixes that, then it'll be perfect for me. Though I do wish it would have XLR outputs, which it won't.

Still, if the Ares doesn't beat the GCPH noticeably, then the GCPH will stay! I certainly can't complain about the sound I'm getting now. Of course that won't stop me from trying to improve it further, as this affliction dictates. Next, I'd like to look at an Ortofon Winfeld cart upgrade - which may dictate a lower mass arm, too.

mulveling

Owner
System edited: Big update - Apollo monoblocks have arrived, and the Atlas will be gone soon. Also using a loaner PS Audio GCPH (XLR outputs into the Hera) in place of the Benz PP-1, with 50-ohm loading. The Apollo/Hera/Kensington combination is freaking blowing my mind.

mulveling

Owner
Thanks for the comments, guys!

Well here's where the "ever evolving" comes in...

I've had the Rogue Hera for a month now. It's been a modest revelation for me. Significantly better resolution and micro-dynamics, along with a BIG increase in soundstage depth, a slight increase in width, and a more neutral/natural tone (as opposed to hitting all AROUND the bulls-eye with different variants of 6sn7 in the 99). Absolutely worth the cost of entry, and in fact I feel I got a GREAT deal on mine.

Unfortunately, now I've had a taste of higher-end and it's like blood in the water. After auditioning a different amp and phono stage in my system, it's clear those two components now represent weaknesses.

Amp:
The system's "macro-dynamics" didn't receive a commensurate bump-up with the introduction of the Hera. An audition of my friend's Stereo 90 Magnum easily showed why - I actually lack enough power for high dynamic range recordings (classical). This was a somewhat surprising to me - I now admit I underestimated my power requirements. That and the 90 Magnum displayed a bit more finesse and articulation too. I decided it's time to move on from The Atlas (GREAT amp for the money), so I now have a pair of Apollo monoblocks on order from my dealer :)

Phono Stage:
I auditioned my dealer's PS Audio GCPH in place of my Benz PP-1 (current T9 version), both using 100 ohm loading on my Ortofon Kontrapunkt "c". The PP-1 was more resolving that other stages I'd previously tried (Aragon 47K, Rogue Stealth, Dynavector P75), but at the expense of a slightly nasty spike/peak/resonance somewhere in the treble. I always assumed that was a side effect of its resolving power - that it was just revealing something in my cartridge or TT setup. Once again, it turns out my assumption was probably wrong. The GCPH is wonderfully smooth over the WHOLE range, no treble peak, and every bit as resolving. In fact, the bass is ever-so-slightly more punchy and taut. The GCPH midrange doesn't have the touch of added warmth of the PP-1, and it's just a tiny bit less 3D, but overall the GCPH is wonderfully liquid and musical, tonally dead neutral, and more enjoyable if only for the lack of that treble aberration. I should also note that I was running AQ Cheetah XLR cables from the GCPH, while the PP-1 uses AQ Jaguar RCA. So, this is not completely fair ground, but the treble problem is too much to be explained by the cables alone IMO. I also might get a Rogue Ares phono stage (soon to be released tube/SS hybrid) for audition, so the winner between that and the GCPH will likely be my next phono stage.

Cables:
Well now this has begun too. I really really like the solid silver I've heard - so smooth AND resolving, with NONE of the brightness that some complain about with silver. I got a pair of AQ Cheetah XLRs that will connect the Hera to the Apollos, when they arrive. I've got an incoming pair of Sky RCAs in anticipation of the Ares phono stage. I've ordered a LeoPard phono cable. My pair of Mont Blanc speaker cables will have to do for now (they don't suck), after some minor re-termination surgery. The Mont Blancs are smoother and more 3D than the LAT silverfuse cables I've repeatedly tried to "downgrade" to (to recoup some money from the Mont Blancs). A little down the line I may look into bi-wiring with VERY short (3-4ft) pairs of KE-4 and Gibraltar.

Speakers:
The Kensngton SEs are here to stay. They've SIGNIFICANTLY enhanced my enjoyment of music in the year since I purchased them. The magic there hasn't yet begun to wear off (for gear, a year is a LONG time with me), though I'm continually shocked at how resolving they are of ANY component (and cable) changes in the system. It's time to get the "right" system behind them.

Mike

mulveling