All components have been chosen with greatest care to ensure the best value/cost ratio as I cannot spend much on my hobby. Yet, I try to improve my system gradually. When there is a will, there's a way, you know. Currently I try to improve my room acoustics by taking a DIY route.
ESS Reference audio (ES9018) 32 bit DAC W4S proprietary discrete output stages for optimum sonics ESS Time Domain Jitter Eliminator® Automatic oversampling for precise output filtering Fully balanced design with balanced and unbalanced outputs Upgradable Digital, Output, and USB boards (designed for future improvements) Oversized toroidal transformer for solid and noise-free power 88,000uF of filtering with W4S low ESR
April Music Stello HP100
Preamp and headamp. Very transparent. After I bought Wyred4Sound DAC-2 with digital volume adjustment, I stopped using this preamp and connected the DAC directly to the power amplifiers. I use Stello HP100 now only as a headphone amplifier.
Monarchy Audio SM-70 PRO
Two power amplifiers, each for every channel. They are are connected directly to the DAC using balanced cables.
KEF R500
Coaxial speaker
REL Acoustics Quake
Small sub (100 W, in-room response of 23Hz at 6dB)
System edited: I bought new speakers (KEF R500), new DAC (Wyred4Sound DAC-2), stopped using the preamp, changed cables (the DAC is now connected directly to the power amps using balanced cables).
System edited: I've built 2 RFZ panels to remove the first side reflections on the left and on the right. They are 2 inch thick and made of mineral wool (density 88 kg/m3).
The speakers' tweeters are on the same level as my ears (I have a sofa which is not too low and I myself am a tall man). I tried to put them on the lower pedestals, the sound became worse.
System edited: I've just DIYed ceiling clouds and got them suspended yesterday. I certainly cannot blind test "before" and "after", but I think I hear improvements in the vertical stratification of the sound. I plan to build 2 more movable acoustic panels for reducing the first reflections from the left and right sides.
Yes, too many people don't realize the importance of room treatments. They prefer to talk about cables all their life... Or maybe they just like boomy bass and muddy undefined soundstage :)
System edited: I tried FabFilter EQ for DRC and found it on the same level or even better than Oxford Sonnox. It is also more convinient to use, because it can handle each channel separately. After I installed the bass traps, I was able to move the speakers closer to the center of the room, they are now more symmetrically positioned in the room than before. This improved the stereo image. I hate the wardrobe which stands too close to the right speaker! Sooner or later it will be replaced with a more acoustically friendly piece of furniture :)
System edited: I self made a lot of bass traps. First of all, I placed three 6 inch bass traps (1 m x 50 cm x 15 cm) behind my neck, because, unfortunately, I have to sit close to the rear wall. Secondly, I put 4 inch bass traps (1 m x 50 cm x 10 cm) behind each speaker to help with the first reflection zones and SBIR there. Thirdly, I put 6 inch bass traps (1 m x 50 cm x 10 cm) in the rear corners. Finally, 4 inch (2 m x 50 cm x 10 cm) bass traps in the front corners.
System edited: I bought Monarchy Audio SM-70 PRO (2 monoblocks), which replaced my NAD C320BEE which was doing its power amp duty for me. The sound improved - namely, the bass became cleaner and more controlled. Also, I started using Oxford Sonnox VST equalizer (one for each channel) in Foobar2000 for digitally correcting my room's resonances. Before that, I used Electri-Q VST equalizers for the same purpose. Oxford is a lot better! More transparent, the highs are crystal clear, the background is blacker. The next plan is to upgrade the speakers. They are the weakest link now, which is a shame.
The distance between my speakers is 2.25 m. It is the same distance as from my head to each of the speakers. It means there is a equilateral triangle with my head and speakers being equidistant from each other. Maybe the photo does not show it the way it really is.
My biggest obstacle to a better soundstage is the small dimensions of my room and that I cannot position the speakers more symmetrically in the room due to the presence of some furniture. I would like to put the speakers (and my listening spot) farther away from walls, but it is not possible.
Yes, you are probably right. I don't know about the US market, but the AE EVO 3 speakers are extremely popular here in Russia. Even though there are officially out of production, AE still continues to make them specially for the Russian market, because the demand is so high. These speakers destroyed all competition in their price range.
It's worth to note that these speakers can be improved by DIY efforts. For example, their MDF panels are 15 mm only, so additional vibroisolation and dampening can be done to improve the sound. Also, these speakers have a reflex port which extends bass. However, the quality of this bass is worse than, say, REL Quake. So, after I bought this sub, I plugged the ports on the main speakers and it cleared the bass significantly.
NAD C320BEE is good, but the power section is noticeably better than its built-in preamp. So, the use of an exernal preamp brings NAD to another, better level (as a power amp only).
Also, I think 50 watt NAD is a bit too weak for AE Evo Three. I didn't believe it until I heard a 100 watt amp driving them.
I had these speaker stands made for my by a local undertaker's office. I gave to them my design and they made it to my specifications. Each stand weighs 55 kgs. It looks like marble on the outside, but it is really made of cement inside. The upper plates can be removed. I put strips of Vibroplast pads (vibration insulation material) between the upper plates and the main body of the stands.
