This all in one works great for me. It has a 500 gig hard drive and a coax S/PDIF out, which I used for quite a while, until I got my Off-Ramp USB working again. I use cMP2 playback software. It is sonically far superior to Foobar2000, and Media Player 15 on my system. < I have about 500 CD's ripped full bandwidth to the hard drive.
Empirical Audio Off-Ramp Turbo USB to S/DIF
This is the original Turbo, not Turbo 2. I finally got it working with my music server which is running Windows 7, 64 bit.
Musical Fidelity TriVista 21
Stock TriVista 21 tubed output DAC with DIY 6 awg power cord. I upsample the 24/96 input to 24/192.
North American Products P-12R (X8) - H-CAT (update 8-09)
H-CAT (Holographic Cloning Amplifier Technology). {currently used as a single ended level matching section between TriVista21 DAC output and Sunfire tube pre input. Allows Sunfire volume control to be in the more linear tracking last bit of the pot} Totally analog, no contacts input to output. Remote switched, mute, display brightness level, inputs, WTC adjustment, and volume. True balanced and single ended outputs, single ended inputs only. You can see my DIY interface and Absolute Phase (as used to be available in most gear decades ago, but now is mostly found on only the most esoteric) switch box just behind the H-CAT. The H-CAT has been updated to version X8. I now use the H-CAT for its WFT aspect and as a signal attenuator. This keeps the potentially very large signal for the DAC from overloading the tube line amp and allows more transient headroom. Lots of fun.
Koetsu Rosewood Sig
Koetsu NOS Rosewood, early signature. It doesn't get better.
Audiocraft AC300
Older Japaneese made damped unipivot. Probably the oldest piece in my system, with the exception of some of my NOS tubes. Manufactured in the late 70's. It is mounted with a Pete Riggle VTAF (Vertical Tracking Angle change on the Fly - while playing).
Pete Riggle VTAF
Pete Riggle VTAF, pronounced 'vee-taff' for 'Vertical Tracking Angle on the Fly'. The VTAF allows smooth and easy VTA (Vertical Tracking Angle) adjustment on the fly and other benefits; Improved nuance, inner detail, air, sound staging, dynamics, pace and rhythm compared with the original mounting system! This is above and beyond the VTA adjustment benefit! Raises performance of tone arms to the highest level! Smooth and easy adjustment of VTA on the fly! Continuously variable VTA adjustment... infinite resolution! High resolution: Each full turn of the adjuster wheel results in only .025 inch (0.635mm) height change VTA is easy to measure, record, and reset! After VTAF installation, the arm can be removed from and restored to the turntable in just moments! Easily remove tone arm for transport, for cartridge maintenance and cleaning, or for cartridge replacement. OTHER VTA ADJUSTERS, ORIGINAL OR AFTER-MARKET, DO NOT CLAIM OR PROVIDE THE ADVANTAGES LISTED ABOVE. http://www.vtaf.com/
Linn LP-12 Sondek Ittok
Linn Sondek Ittok. I originally bought it with Ittok mounted in 1984 from Gene Rueben. There have been a few mods like the three cone feet, damping and a second layer of acoustic isolation, a bike inner tube.
Sunfire Classic Vacuum Tube Control Center
Sunfire Classic Vacuum Tube Control Center, with phonoboard, and remote options. It is so nice to be back to a full function preamp with balance and tone/contour controls. This preamp tends to be rare, when fully optioned. The six (6) tube phono board was an option. It will soon be updated to an eight (8) tube board. It could be user installed. It has provisions for MM, MC (the additional two tubes will be added to the MC pre-preamp), and a reverse RIAA input for CD that can then be run through the MM section to tame bright/hard sounding CD players. Remote control became available later in the production run, as an additional option. It was only available factory install. Other than a pair of 12AX7 (Amperex Bugle Boys) in the phono section, the other 7 tubes should be 6922/6DJ8s. Four (4) of the tubes are 6DJ8/6922 (on the phonoboard), with three additional 6H30pi-DR in the line section. The preamp is very flexible and pretty much bullet proof. It is a tube roller's dream. I have currently rolled NOS from the late 50s to the late 70s into all positions. . I am still playing with the tube complement in the MC section and the final position on the phonoboard. The MM section uses the pair of Bugle Boy 12AX7s. The line section has three (3) NOS 6H30pi-DP for the singled ended and balanced output. It is a really sleeper. Much better than many would guess and most even know.
Van den Hul The First - etc.
1 pr of the orignial THE FIRST. 4 pr of THE FIRST Ultimate Mk II. 3 pr THE FIRST ULTIMATE. (The First Ultimate original, best of the lot in my system YMMV). Carbon fiber, the only metal is in the RCA connectors. I had tried some of both the copper, the alloy, and the silver expensive spread. I ALWAYS return to my VdH with great joy and aural relief.
Manley Laboratories Neo-Classic
Dual mono, all tube amps. 10 EL34's per side! Neo-Classic Design for 2000! (this pair was built in May of 2003) Same great ballsy sound, new chassis design to fit in those HUGE new transformers! 250 watts per channel in tetrode/100 watts per channel triode. NOS GE JAN 12AT7WA (1965), NOS Sylvania 12BH7A's, and NOS RFT (1981) EL34's.
Manley Laboratories Neo-Classic 250
What I see as I listen in a darkened room, in triode mode. The price is per pair. They look amazing in the dark.
Audioquest Volcano 144v
Four foot pair Volcano, upgraded to 144v dbs
Zero Impedance/Anti-Cable Zero Box
I am back to the Zeros. I had two pair of the naked zeros a couple of years back. As I upgraded the system it was less revealing with the zeros in and I sold them.
As I have continued to upgrade the system Zeros have made their way back in with GREAT sonic improvements and none of the veiling I heard before.
You can see them to each side of the amp. Usually there is one on each amp, but one is out for repair.
Cardas Helink Golden 5-C
Very old 1 meter pair of top of the line. Thick as a snake.
Sequerra HF-1
Ribbon super tweeters. At $300 ea. in 1980 they were 1/2 the price of the T1's at the time. After seeing a later generation 180 degree Sequerra design with 3 horizontal ribbons, I decided to try mine on their sides. Much better!! You can see one here sitting on the custom solid Oak tweeter perch I built for it. Martin Logan to the right. Van den Hul hanging off the self below and to the left. Nitty Gritty to the left, and DIY tube trap behind.
Martin Logan Prodigy
Martin Logan Prodigy. Bought dealer demos shortly after they were discontinued. What a buy. What a sound.
Martin Logan Depth
This is a pair of depths, bought from a dealer on the web after the depth i superceded it. Amazing subs!
DIY Acoustic Flags
A very inexpensive copy of ASC's acoustic flags. These flags are simply in-wall fiber glass insulation from Home Depot with the paper backing removed and then sewn between two pieces of fabric. Very inexpensive and works great! If you can't sew just cut out a rectangle, fold it diagonally, put the fiber glass triangle inside the fabric, and staple together the two edges. Use two push pins to secure them to the ceiling.
DIY Tube Traps
Another ASC DIY copy for a small fraction of the retail price. You can see one of my low noise bathroom fans on the ceiling for removing tube system generated heat. I built a lot of these tube traps but only have a few in the room right now. Top cap and end cap is MDF, a layer of wall fiber glass rolled around the inside of a cage of hardware cloth. One half of the circumference is covered with mylar used for window sun block. Avery good friend with a great deal of "real" tube trap experience, made a couple of simple repositions and the differences were jaw dropping. You absolutely should either buy, or build some!
Home Depot Squard D
Square D surface mount box with one 30 amp breaker. 10/3 AWG solid core wire.
Tice Audio Power Blocks & Titans
Four of the Power Blocks with three Titans, wired in parallel on a dedicated 30 amp circuit. Huge, heavy, isolation tranformers. Almost 500 pounds of square cross section 12 AWG single strand wire, and iron. About 10,000 watts of reserve for transient peaks and music foundation. Transient current delivery of a 75 amp circuit! Probably $15,000 worth in todays dollars.
Weiland/Tice Power Station
Here is a picture of my four Tice power blocks, and three Tice Titans (off to the left, under the Linn garage system speaker). There are four (two duplex) outlets supplying the power blocks from the 30 amp dedicated circuit. The wire from the secondary (isolation filtered) side of the transformers is 6 AWG going through the wall to 14 duplex outlets of the other side for the audio system. This power station has the short term transient current delivery ability of a 75 amp line!!!!! Originally, the Power Block/Titan combinations were $2,250 per pair. Of course they can be found for less now. The $15,000 is a pie in the sky number based on 1988 dollars, and currently available audio power conditioners/filters.
Hubble 20 amp hospital grade
I have mounted 14 hubble hospital grade 20 amp duplex outlets in my audio room, in two banks of four and two banks of 3. A run of 6 AWG solid core wire supplies the first bank and the other three are connected with 8 AWG.
Blue Circle Audio BC68
The BC68 is essentially a BC62 power cord with a built in line-conditioner equivalent to two BC86 MKII noisehounds. It was developed for use with electrostatic loudspeakers. The background low level noise just went away. BLACK, BLACK, BLACK background. Worth every penny.
Virtual Dynamics - Kinda David 2.0 Series - Kinda
I have built 6 VD type cords, so far. (I need to build at least 5 more.) The first after watching their video on how to build a power 3, but instead of 14 awg I used 10 awg. I built a 12 awg version, then moved on to this 10 awg. I now use only 6 awg. Here is a link to the DIY power cord http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1242155869&read&keyw&zzdiy=power
Virtual Dynamics - DIY Master Series w/ 6 awg copper
This picture of my 3 foot 6 awg DIY power cord dwarfing my 10 awg Element Basic cable. Well worth the effort, both in improved sound and thousands of dollars saved. Link to DIY power cord project http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1242155869&read&keyw&zzdiy=power
You asked earlier, about the most expensive power cord, which I responded to, but... above you can see I have been experimenting with some Virtual Dynamics type DIY cords.
I just finished the 1st Genesis($2,600)like 6 awg power cord (under $75). I will be listening tonight to see how it compares to the David Series like 10 awg I built last week and have been using since then.
Sorry, just saw your question about the fabric. I used sonically transparent stuff from the same company that does it for many high priced manufacturers; Guilford of Maine. http://www.guilfordofmaine.com/ They don't sell directly to consumers normally. At least they didn't went I ordered through a guy who does acoustic design & custom install work. I'm glad I went through a few hoops to do it. Cheers, Spencer
System edited: I have added three Virtual Dynamics like power cords. I followed their online Power 3 formula, except for the 10 awg and 12 awg I used. Then I went on to a "David Series 2.0" like, three leg 10 awg. I am now getting together the parts to build, as close as I can come, their Genesis. The differences in system background silence/blackness and system purity/sweetness are truly amazing. It is difficult to fathom what $30 or so worth of parts per cord and a few hours each of fabricating can do.
System edited: System edit. Phase Linear 1000, Carver DTL, Behringer Tube Ultra T1953, and Sonic Euphoria PLC all replaced with a new $5k active preamp. Details and pictures to come. C Currently also using Audioquest Volcano speaker wire.
I really enjoyed reading about your journey in audio. Impressive choice of gear! The way you listen you are getting very little room reflections - almost like giant headphones. What cans do you prefer?
I forgot my most expensive power cords. The Blue Circle BC68 Power Cord with In-Line Filter. They are $465 Canadian. Because of the exchange rate they are currently 20% less than they were 6 months ago.
Designed specifically for electrostatic speakers. I did try putting them on the amps and the Elements on the speakers. The result was decidedly worse.
My system setup has changed quite a bit since then. I may try that switch again.
On my ML Prodigy, the effect of the BC cords was exactly as intended. They make a sizable improvement to the sound.
I ordered a pair of power cords that all offered a 30 day money back guarantee for four different suppliers on November 19th. Your cords arrived a week before any of the others.
I had two pieces of equipment that would accept IEC, a DAC and a power amp (highly modified Moscode 600 tube hybrid). I only had one rather high quality power cord, an Eichmann eXpress ($300 retail). It was on the DAC. I pulled it and plugged in the Element Cord. The improvement (right out of the box) was not subtle. Much, much quieter back ground, blacker. Wider, deeper, more ambient sound stage. More fleshed out image. More intricate middle range texture. More dynamic. Bass to die for. But just a little dull on the top, less air.
So, I decided to give the power cord 5 days to break in. By the way, I left the 1st Element in place on the DAC and put the Eichmann on the amp. After some listening I pulled the Eichmann and put the second Element on the amp. To my amazement, the differences I had heard on the DAC were the same on the amp, but even bigger!!
By the ended of the first 24 hours of break in more highs had appeared, in fact too many. The system sounded too bright, but I figured another 4 days of break in just might tame those highs. Well I was right. By the next day the "brightness" was gone and the system sounded that best I have heard it. I really did not see how any of the other three brands that were coming could unseat the Element.
When the next two sets of power cords arrived, I did a quick comparison. The Signal Cable Company's Magic sounded like it could be a real contender (I liked the heat shrink on the Magic and thought it would make the Element look better). The GTT Group Absolute would have to change a lot during break in to come close to the Element. I pulled both Elements and gave the Magic a full 5 days of break in. While the Magic was very good and comes in a close second, it is not as quiet, have as deep bass, ambient, dynamic or harmonically richness. It was sweeter, but not enough to unseat the Element.
The Absolute has much less bottom and top, smaller sound stage with a bloated center image, very midrangey without the harmonic texture.
Finally the Black Mountain Peak Gold arrived. While it was more dynamic, like the Element, it was a bit too bright and without the bottom of the Element or the Magic.
All the other cords will be going back. Once I have received my refunds I will be ordering more Elements, at least four more, possibly five.
Spencer I did later order the Red Storm which is specifically designed for digital equipment. But..... in my system the TriVista sounded much better with the Element Basic cable.
I just took a look at your system. Really nice. Of course the most impressive piece to me was the "woofer" on the sofa. I really love dogs.
I like what you have put together. I need to cover my tube traps with something nice. Where did you get the acoustic fabric?
To answer your question on power cords, the most expensive PC I have had was only $300 retail/Eichmann Express which was reviewed against more expensive cords and did well, but ultimately was easily unseated by the Element in my system.
I did compare three other cords against the Element basic cord. I will copy my review into the next response for your to read.
The bottom line IS you HAVE to hear them in your system to see what is synergistic with your equipment. THERE IS NO BEST. Only a best for you.
Cool system. I like your combination of old and new; it's obvious you aren't influenced by "flavor-of-the-month" thinking.
As a recent purchaser of a TriVista 21 dac, curious to hear if you've tried any higher priced power cables on that and what you'd suggest I try. I've messed with Audience, VH Flavor2, Signal Magic and Absolute Power Cord thus far. My rig is posted as "Goosebump Factory". Thanks, Spencer
Ive owned a ton of speakers since my Martin Logan days(owned several logans as well) and I must say they a great speaker manufacture for the money.Anything from the aeon i's up!
Similar musical tastes. So, yes absolutely. However, ML and Lowthers are quit different and as you indicate a SET is not going to work for the ML because you will not have the dynamic headroom.
I am assuming you are no where close to the LA area. If you were, you could come over for a listen with some of your favorite recording and get a sense of what you would be creating in your location.
I just send you an email for longer discussions outside this listing, if you are interested.
System is SET amps driving Lowthers in Cain and Cain cabinets. Main source is Wadia 850 although I have some vinyl. System is fast, dynamic and with major slam. I would obviously need to swap power amps to go the ML route.
Room has extensive acoustic treatments. DIY bass trap in each front corner with the majority of the walls covered with and the cieling first reflection point treated with Auralex diffusors.
Music is varied -- rock and roll -- Doors, Eagles; some jazz -- MJQ; some classic; female vocals -- Christy McVie, Celine Dion, Sade.
Your system has stopped me right in my tracks. I have been lusting after Martin Logans for some time. I considered them for my listening room, but decided not to go that way thinking my room was too small. It is W=10.5' by L=12.5'. I have the speakers on the short wall.
Your room is longer than mine, but the width is the same. Do you think I could use Martin Logans?
Hey Scott. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I had not been checking the site and there was no notice in my email.
My room is an "L". The picture you see it the top of the L. The room is 10.5 feet wide and 21 feet long. The leg of the L goes off to the right behind me and extends about 5 feet. That area is 7x5. The ceiling is 7'10". Wood stud and drywall construction. The floor is travertine over cement slab.
The bottom end is tight, full, articulate, and deep. There is no bloat or overhang.
I took a quick look at your system. We can discuss what might work for you. My email is [email protected].
Are both your subs to the left because of convenient placement?