There are some seriously good current production tubes.
I would venture to say that in terms of quality, we are close to the 60's. I have done listening tests with current prod 12AX7's and they were better than the vaunted NOS siemens etc. Doug has them in his preamp right now. I have no problem recommending current production tubes that have been tested at the voltages that they will be used.
eg. in my amp - I get startling results with SED, Golden Dragon (Shuguang). I recently took it to a listening test with the chinese EL34's in it and people were amazed.
If you have a good basic circuit, you will get a certain level of result with basically any tube that conforms to specs. Then,its a matter of slight tweaking.
HTH