99dB eff. with active subs powered by 300W Class A/B amps 20Hz-70kHz FR
Audio Magic Clairvoyant 4D Speaker Cables
Silver foil
Valve Amplification Company Phi 110/110 Power Amplifier
KT88 Push Pull 110Wpc Modified/updated by Kevin at VAC to latest
Audio Magic Clairvoyant 4D XLR Interconnect
1 meter
J&R Audio Design Essential 3150 Phono/Line/Preamp
Balanced Phono/Line Preamplifier - only 2 gain stages/Bipolar transistors - RIAA eq. deviation from 20 to 20kHZ is .009dB - signal to noise ratio over 80db - Low cut filter selectable between DC, 16 and 32 Hz - switchable 3.18 us turnover point to compensate for the cutting head preemphasis roll-off - common mode rejection: -150db - output impedance: 75(RCA)/150(XLR)Ohms - direct coupled - fully balanced input to output - distortion: 0.0002% - frequency response: 0.01 to 1 Mhz - Clean gain: Adjustable to 100 db - Dual Mono design with separate power supply - Zero negative feedback - true segmented ground plane - fully regulated input to output - Front panel controls = Mute, Phase reversal, Mono, Power - Dual Volume controls: The volume control attenuates the audio signal and the stage noise at the same time, resulting in outstanding signal-to-noise ratios and dynamic range. For every volume position, there is only one resistor defining the quality of the amplified signal -capacitance loading adjustment for MM inputs via rear panel - 4 line inputs: 2 XLR and 2 RCA - 1 MC phono input(both XLR and RCA) - 1 MM phono input(both XLR and RCA)
Galibier Quattro Turntable
aluminum/teflon/lead shot and oil platter
Schroeder #2 Tonearm
Pertinax armwand with Reference SQ magnets shaped to reduce changes in vertical tracking force with changes in vertical tracking angle. I use it with a Teres VTA adapter and Bocchino XLR's.
van den Hul Colibri XPP moving coil cartridge
mounted on the Schroeder. Platinum coils. Still our fave...
Technics EPA100 Tonearm
A tonearm that makes everything easy.
Zu Xaus phono Mk2 xlr cable
Din to XLR
Technics EPC P100C Mk4 mm cartridge
p-mount
Technics EPC 100 Mk3 mm cartridge
Integrated headshell. New suspension from VdH.
Technics 100C mm cartridge
Integrated headshell
Technics 205C Mk3 mm cartridge
Integrated Headshell
Technics EPC 310MC moving coil cartridge
P-mount Moving coil
Empire 4000D/III Gold
NOS
van den Hul MM-1
bought used
Azden YM-P50VL
NOS
Andante P76
NOS
Nagaoka MP-50
Bought Used
ADC TRX-II
NOS
ADC XLM III
NOS
Audio Technica ML170-OCC
NOS
Audio-Technica USA AT7V
mm
Acutex 420STR
mm
King/Cello Tape Repro Amp
Solid state tape repro amp and phono preamp. Cello design built by Charles King.
Studer A810 Reel to Reel
up to 30ips Reel to Reel 1/4" 2 track
Accuphase T-1000 Tuner
modern tuner
APL modified Philips SACD-1000
APL modified
Herzan Active Isolation platform
Like a vibraplane, fed by a nitrogen tank. Sits under the TT.
Adona 2 level stand
holds my amp and turntable
DIY TNT Flexy Stand
mahagony and SS
CRL/Fim Silver XLR 1M
Bocchino XLR's
PS Audio Statement PC's
4 of these
Real Traps Mini Traps
8 of these for bass trapping and first reflections.
RPG Skylines
8 of these for diffusion
Loricraft PRC-4 Record Cleaning Machine
Vacuum record cleaner - it works great, but it's a heck of a chore cleaning every album:-).
Hi Reid! I did call Herzan for help once when I was setting up the platform and was treated VERY well. Much better than I would have expected considering I thought I was a rather unorthodox user. I couldn't be happier with the platform or the support. Thanks!
I hope your Herzan vibration isolation system is working well and has improved the clarity of your audio equipment. It is always nice to see our equipment benefitting various applications. If you find any challenges or issues, please don't hesitate to contact us.
I purchased the Isodamp c-1002 in 1/4" thickness from Michael Percy audio. You can find it on page 19 of his catalog online. It was suggested by him that at this thickness would be best to support the 200+ lbs I would be loading it with.
Finding a shop willing to cut even the aluminum I wanted was a little challenging - mostly because I don't think they really wanted to bother themselves with such a small job, but eventually I found a couple willing to put up with my seemingly strange requests:).
Thanks for the information, Mab33. I am looking to pre-load the VP with about 130 lbs and because the top plate is steel, I thought I would try that first. Could you please specify which EAR Isodamp material you have? I was thinking about just a piece of scrap roofing rubber, which is cheap and very strong.
I was also concerned about the ringing of steel, but granite and aluminum also ring. I figure that in the real world, there will be little impact on the surface of the VP to cause the steel to ring and as it is designed for very sensitive equipment anyway, that should not be much of an issue.
I will try it as soon as I get my massive piece of 1 1/2" steel cut down to size so I can move it. It's not so easy to find a shop to cut such a thick piece.
Sorry for the delayed response! Congrats on the Vibraplane! I think you will be happy with it:).
I did not try materials other than aluminum, though I too thought about steel. Considering aluminum's easy availability and machining, it was the most attainable for me in the size/weight I needed to get to the right load. The Herzan vibration table top plate is made of steel and rings like a bell, as does the aluminum plates I had cut. Since this seemed not entirely ideal I purchased some EAR Isodamp material to put between the two. This deadened the whole "unit" without adding any real play that I can detect. Isodamp isn't so "squishy" like sorbothane(at least any I've used) and remains reasonably stiff in my experience with it.
I would certainly be interested in your experience with other materials if you try them. I am happy with this set up so I haven't experimented with much else in a few years...
Nice system. I've always wanted to hear Raul's pre/phono/line. I just bought a Vibraplane and am planning to pre-load it because my turntable is only 30 lbs. I'm considering steel, aluminum, granite and marble. Did you try other materials and what is that blue sheet that you place between your isolation and aluminum slab? Thanks for any advice you may have about this isolation stuff.
Just to say hi and note that your system has moved on in leaps and bounds since last we spoke. Congratulations and I'd still love to hear it at some future point.
So sorry I haven't responded! It's been a while since I checked in here. To make a long story short, I am still experimenting with positioning:-). My plan is to move most/all of the skylines to the cieling. The info I've gotten on this so far suggests that they will work best at the first reflection on the ceiling and then somewhere between that and the directly above the listener. Rives said that you should keep a minimum of 2.5-3 feet between any Skyline and your ears. Another poster suggested that he had found it was best to keep the additional Skylines( after the first reflection) outside the axis of the speakers(closer to the side walls than overhead).
My Realtraps are placed in the corners, at the first reflections on the sidewalls, and centered behind the speakers. I haven't permanently mounted them either though, because I like to change things up here and there and see what effects it has.
The back of my room has built in bookcases and cabinets, otherwise I may have gone for more diffusion back there, as I think this is a fairly classic placement. Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss more!
Hi Matt - can you share with us where you've placed your RealTraps & RPG acoustic treatment goodies? Are the Skylines on your ceiling or front wall or behind the listener etc etc - same goes for the RealTrap placement.
. . looking for some info on what goes where so to speak.
Thanks for the compliment! Yes, I use both arms. I haven't actually swapped cartridges between them so it's kinda hard to describe the differences in sound without considering the different carts. I will say though, that I find the Schroeder easier to adjust, although still not perfect in that regard. Lately I've been considering selling the Hadcock and finding something that has independent adjustments for all things like VTF, Azimuth, VTA etc. One thing about the Schroeder #2 is that with any change in VTA, the VTF changes - making quick changes more of an effort. Any arm that combines two function in one mechanism, like a counterweight that you twist to set Azimuth, makes things a bit more difficult to get set up correctly. The Schroeder gets around this with an additional counterweight that screws into the back of the arm stub and in his Ref SQ, I believe, most of these kinds of things have been addressed. Unfortunately, there don't appear to be a lot of arms that are engineered that way and the couple I've found so far are on the pricey side:-). Personally, because the difference in cost between the Hadcock Super Silver and Schroeder #2 is not that huge, I would recommend the Schroeder based on build quality and ease of adjustment alone. In order to describe differences in sound I would have to do a lot of swapping and set up, which doesn't sound too fun and is probably why I haven't done it:-).
Glad you got to hear the Essential! I'm still a tube lover as well, but I have been very happy with my SS pre. I suppose it's a bit unorthodox to have a SS pre driving a tube amp, but it sounds really good to me and I think that's what counts. Unfortunately the VAC has too much gain for the system so I'm currently on the hunt for a new amp.
Hey Matt, great looking system. Do you run both tonearms on the table at the same time? How do the tonearms compare? And yes, the Essential is a pretty amazing preamp. I heard it in three systems, and it was great in all of them. Just about the only ss preamp I'd say that about! Cheers, Spencer
Thanks! The ST's were made by Von Schweikert for the DB-99's. They weren't released until well after the main speakers, so it was an add on. I bought them used from another member here so the price wasn't too bad. As far as what impact they have on the sound, well, it's subtle, but they do add a little clarity to the sound. The guy I bought them from had described the difference as listening to the piano with the lid closed versus open. Although this is probably a bit exagerated for effect, I think that it does a good job of explaining what to expect from them.