Description

Thanks for all the threads urging me to wait patiently for the Kestrels, it was worth it. The music has an overall integration, highs are smooth and extended, bass sounds solid and tight. But the mids are where the system really shines. My next upgrade is a good rack and changes to the room. Any comments or opinions are appreciated. Thanks for viewing.
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Components Toggle details

    • Meadowlark Audio Kestrel II
    2 way floorstanding loudspeaker; Honduran mohagany with maple stringer
    • Eastern Electric Minimax cdp
    Vacuum Tube Compact Disc Player
    • PrimaLuna Prologue I
    35 watt el-34 push-pull integrated amplifier
    • DH Labs Air Matrix
    Interconnects
    • DH Labs Q10
    Speaker wire. 8ft. length.
    • DH Labs Q10 Jumper Cables
    Set of Q10 jumpers constructed by Value Audio.
    • Monster Power HTS 1000 MKII Power Center
    affordable power conditioning
    • PS Audio Power Port
    One Power Port on a dedicated AC line.
    • Mapleshade Samson v.1
    2 inch maple shelves, solid steel uprights, solid brass Heavy Feet and hardware
    • Mapleshade Threaded Heavyfeet
    Replaced PL1 stocks
    • Mapleshade Ultimate Triplepoint v.3
    Replaced stocks on source

Comments 23

Showing all comments by mikemarv.

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Here's a link to some detailed tips to build the IKEA Lyte Rack, along with a link to Ken Lyon's original recipe. Note that it is not essential to inject the foam, it's a minor benefit according to Ken. His main priorities of a rigid, low mass, energy dissipating design remain intact without this step. If you decide to inject foam, do this a day prior to assembling the rack to allow time for drying. You inquired about the base. The base is simply one table top without the legs. So if you want two platforms--one for amp and one for CDP--you need to buy two tables (about $15/ea). Consider leaving a good 6-8+" clearance above your tube amp for heat disipation. Spikes are an essential aspect of the design. No vibrapods. Regarding vibrapods under the speakers, I've got two very curious cats, but they never took interest in my speakers. You may want to give them a try. Here's a link to the rack webpage:

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=tweaks&n=121453&highlight=ikea+riotubes&r=&session=

mikemarv

Great looking system! Love the look of those Meadowlarks. I have two suggestions that will set you back a whopping $70 bucks that worked for me, and I have used a very similar system. If that's a floor vent in the upper left, then you have a raised foundation. If so, you may want to experiment with four, appropriately sized vibropods under each speaker instead of spikes (only if you don't have little ones or large pets as they will be stable, but not quite as stable). I have oak floors on a raised foundation and this made a material improvement in bass exension, soundstage and imaging. Second, and this is a no brainer, go to your local IKEA and buy two Lack end tables (oak finish would fit nicely with your floors) and build the Ken Lyon (of Neuance fame) designed IKEA Lyte equipment rack. This will take you all of about 4 hours. If you don't have access to a chop saw, your local hardware store can cut down the legs. Given that I have the same amp and similar system and room, I can speculate that you will achieve better inner resolution, pacing, note attack and decay. Although cheap, this rack is based on the principles that Neuance uses with its mega $$$ equipment shelves. Not that a power cord change won't make a difference (it will), but tese simple tweaks will make a material difference and will allow you to better assess the impact of a power cord change. If you are interested I can send you directions, or do a search here and also on asylum. Try it!

mikemarv