Single Fullrange Driver and Single Ended Triode approach to music reproduction. Why?
I like the immediacy, transparency, tone & timbre, naturalness, presence and richness of low powered direct heated single ended triode amps (with preferably single plate triode power tubes). Because these amps typically have low power (typically 3-4 watts or less), I have to use high efficiency speakers and I prefer full range single drivers to meet this need - for their coherence, speed and naturalness that they bring as compared to multi-way driver systems (typically and IMHO). The Feastrex drivers are simply amazing and I do believe one of the best available full range drivers, if not the best. No peakiness, smooth yet lively, very fast and dynamic (especially the field-coil versions) and the best bass from a fullranger ever. The field coil versions are significantly better than the Alnico versions and the 9 inch versions are very dynamic and capable of rendering large orchestral works in their full majesty. I use a pair of REL 218 subs to get me bass below 40Hz and it's a great combo.
Digital FrontEnd: The Zanden DAC needs no introduction. I use the 47 Labs Flatfish transport as I like its simple approach and musical sound. With the improved clock mods and battery power supply, this CD transport really becomes very good. See 2018 updates.
Analog Source: the Galibier Gavia TT is very quiet, musical, dynamic and transparent. The AudioCraft AC4000 arm with the Technics EPC-P100C MkIV MM cartridge gives great tracking, good dynamics with neutral and wide bandwidth plus good detail and great soundstage. The FR-7F MC cartridge with Micro Seiki MAX282 arm gives me a slightly more organic, richer sound compared to the AC4000/Technics EPC-P100C combo. The SP10mk3 is new to my system and is now my reference. Great PART, dynamics yet very neutral and very transparent. The FR7fz and Ikeda 9CIII cartridge brings a certain natural, organic sound to my system. Deciding which cartridge/arm combo is not easy. Each has its strengths. See 2018 updates.
Phono and PreAmp: My Essential 3160 PhonoPreamp has added more transparency, better details, improved soundstaging and also greater flexibility (Seperate MM and MC stages, phase invert and mono switch etc) to my system. Very neutral yet musical preamp. My first solidstate amp/device but its all class A, dual mono, simple output stage, balanced mode and current drive mode. Added the Wavac LCR-X2 phonostage. Wow! Brings my analog front end up a big notch. Now making me itch for a tube linestage to match. And added Wavac PR-T1 preamp.
PowerAmps: The First Watt SIT-2, Fi 421a and DIYHiFiSupply LD91MonoMax are better SET amps that what I had before, giving increasing transparency and resolution and also improved bass response and extension. These 3 amps are closer to each other than one would think but they each have their respective strenghts and I could live with any of them. In rotation but if I had to pick an order of preference, this would be the LD91 MonoMax followed by the SIT-2 and then the Fi421a. Just added Berning's New 300B SET ZOTL amp. Liking this very much. The most transparent of my amps but very very dynamic, fast and with great tone and timbre. Very sensitive to the tubes used. Now rolling tubes trying to find the best combinations. My new reference amp. Done rolling tubes. This is clearly the best amp ever in my system.
Overall: My system gives me great immediacy, naturalness and presence, realistic tone/timbre, fine transparency and resolution (shows up any tweak/changes easily and clearly) and above all great musicality. Weaknesses are in the room, which have high ceilings. I have tried to improve the room acoustics (with quite some success I must add) using Acoustic Revive's QR-8 quartz resonators all over the room & windows, Shakti Hallographs (in the corners behind the speakers) and a pair of Acoustic Revive's RWL-3 acoustic panels (placed behind the speakers). Also using Acoustive Revive RR-888 (1pc) and 2pcs of RR-777.
I listen mainly to jazz, R&B and some classics, a little rock & some reggae.
Minimalist but musical CD transport. Ergonomically a pain to use but with great sound. Very smooth and analog sounding. Upgraded this by replacing the stock Dumpty power supply with a Brian Charney battery powered PSU. This battery PSU is so much better - better bass, soundstage and dynamics - a huge improvement. Really gives the FlatFish a significant improvement - like a new CD transport. Highly recommended. Also, the Flatfish was upgraded by Brian Charney with an AudioComm SuperClock 4 and other upgraded components. This transport now has greater dynamics and jitter has been reduce such that I no longer use the Altmann DeJitter.
Upgraded with the Chord Blu Mk2 which is a must in combination with the Chord DAVE to bring out the best in each other.
Zanden 5000 MkIV DAC
Zero sampling, no digital filter, tube DAC. Very analogue like and musical. Smooth with great tone and timbre. Upgraded with Gold Lion 6X4 and 6CA4 tube rectifiers and Mullard/Amperex E88CC Holland D Getter pinch waist tube. Also using an Acoustic Revive grounding conditioner.
Upgraded to Chord DAVE DAC with Chord Blu Mk2 Cd transport and upsampler. This combination is the best digital so far in my system. Still keeping the Zanden 5000DAC because of its unique organic sound.
Galibier Gavia TT with Durand Talea 2 tonearm
Heavy mass loaded base with heavy Aluminium platter coupled with an integrated graphite mat driven by a wide mylar tape belt using a precision DC motor powered by a 12vDC SLA battery. Very quiet and transparent with good soundstage. Dynamic, good bass and excellent PRAT. This is a belt drive TT with dynamics and PRAT of a direct drive/idler drive but with the quietness and transparency of a good belt drive. Can use 2 tonearms; Typically a Micro Seiki MAX282 (3 armwands)and a Fidelity Research FR66s updated with new Silver internal wiring. Also have a AudioCraft AC4000 LTD (silver) and a Durand Talea II tonearms. My Gavia has the latest large block armboard with micro-P2S adjustments. Updated with new DC motor & controller and new belt. All cartridges are setup using the Mint LP Arc Protractors and/or Uni Protractor system.
Technics SP10mk3 + Porter plinth FR66s. Fully serviced and rewired with new Silver wires and Rhodium connectors by Ikeda
SP10mk3. Totally refurbished (new caps, IEC power socket, calibration, new IC) and upgraded with revised Richard Krebs mods by Bill Thalmann of Music Technology.
Also fitted with the SDP (Special Decoupled Platter w/isolated spindle)
platter by Acoustical Systems. The SDP brings a further refinement, expanded soundstage to the SP10mk3
ViV Laboratory Rigid Float 9 inch
An amazing arm. Just sits on the plinth, no offset angle, easy to setup and sounds quite amazing. Highly Recommended.
Technics EPC-P100C MkIV MM cartridge
Low Output Moving Magnet Cartridge. Very good tracking ability, smooth sounding with lots of details.
AKG P100LE MM cartridge
Very good cartridge even though its an MM.
Koetsu Coralstone Diamond Platinum
The Coralstone Platinum was my favorite cartridge. Amazing. Very palpable and musical. Check out the shootout review in my threads.
Now upgraded to Diamond Cantilever version. Added detail and transparency. Excellent.
Various MC/MM/MI: SPU Gold, Koetsu Onyx Plt, FR7Fz, Ikeda 9CIII
Here are some of the cartridges in my possession besides the Technics EPC-P100C mk4 and AKG P100LE. (Not in any order of priority): (1) Ortofon SPU Silver Meister Mk2 run nude. Very dynamic and sounds better without its integrated headshell. I have a custom made Gun-Metal adaptor for mounting into a standard headshell. Works well with my Fidelity Research FR-66s arm. Sold and bought SPU Gold which is better all around. Just bought a used SPU 85th Anniversary and this is even better. (2) Sold my SPU Mono GM and bought Miyajima ZERO - my new reference mono cartridge. (3) Fidelity Research Fr-7fz and Fr-7f - the Fr-7FRz is better. Detailed, transparent, smooth, lush and musical. Very heavy cartridge but works well with my MAX282 with heavy J arm(XP282Au) or FR66s. (4) Ikeda 9CIII. Cantileverless cartridge. Great cart. Very immediate sounding. I'm looking for the Ikeda 9R as a result. (5)Audiocraft AC-3 MC. This is a very nice cart and will give new $$ carts a run for their money (6) Fidelity Research PMC-3 MC. Cheaper and later relative to the FR-7. Nice for its price, similar house sound to the FR-7 but not quite up to the Fr-7f in terms of transparency and resolution. (7) Denon DL-103D. Ceramic body. MC(8) Satin M18BX, quadrophonic MC with berylium cantilever. (9)MM cartridges: Acutex 412STR, Stanton 881s, MM cartrdige with JICO shibata stylus, B&O MMC1 & MMC2, Azden YM-P50VL (A couple of friends whose ears I trust have tried it and both like it very much), Andante P-76, Empire 4000D Mk3, Technic EPC-P205C Mk3, MM cartridge, Glanz M71E, AKG P8ES. I have not heard them all but hopefully...one day... Just added a Transfiguration Proteus MC cartridge, my first new contemporary MC cartridge in a long time. But sold to upgrade to a Koetsu Coralstone Diamond Platinum which I really, really like.
Wavac LCR-X2 Phonostage
Tube LCR phonostage. Best phonostage I have yet encountered. Big, spacious, palpable sound with lots of presence and dynamics.
J&R Essential 3160 phono+linestage
This is a dual mono, Class A, no feedback, solid State Fully Balanced Phono Preamplifier. Phono Stage uses balanced input from the cartridge. Enough gain for use with low output MC to not require step-up transformer (60db). Have completely seperate MM and MC phono stages. Sublime, detail, smooth, neutral, natural tones and very dynamic.
Now upgraded to Wavac PR-T1 preamp. Better.
Tribute Inductive Volme Control
Bought a passive inductive volume control from Tribute. This is a stereo unit. Put it into a DIY case with 4 RCA inputs using Silver Neotech internal cabling. Very transparent yet quite dynamic sounding preamp. In fact, its probably the most transparent preamp in my collection. Very pure sounding, yet smooth, dynamic and very musical. Needs to have enough gain from your source to your power amp to bring out it's best and need to match the source and power amps impedances. Once you can do this, it's very good and probably the best value in a preamp. Works great with my Wavac phono and Zanden DAC into my Berning 300B ZOTL amp. This combo is now becoming my favorite. Used to have the Bent Audio TX-102 Silver TVC. I think the Tribute is better. More organic sounding and more musical.
Berning 300B ZOTL (New Siegfried)
It's a new version of Berning's famous Siegfried 300B/811 ZOTL amp. Dave B. told me he likes this better than the original Siegfried 300B. He says it sounds better. This is Serial #3. He only builds on special request. Hence, it is built like a DIY amp and is very simple/DIY looking. It's a pair of 300B driven by 6SN7 (2pcs), 12au7 (1pc) and 6au6(2pc) tubes. Stereo single chassis. It has 7 watts into 6 ohm, 6 watts into 4-8 ohm and about 4 watts into 16 ohm. Technically, it's a 300B single ended, class A, choke loaded, ZOTL amp. No output transformers. This is now my favorite 300B single ended amp. Great transparency, detail and speed. But also smoothness, speed, liveliness, linear freq. response from bass to treble. This has all the attributes of OTL but without the leanness and sometimes brittle/tilted high end. AS warm and rich as traditional 300B OPT amps. Need to match with NOS tubes for best results. Liking it very much with the EML 300B XLS tube. The Elrog 300B was better than the EML.
But now running with 1940's engraved base WE300B. Wow! Beliismo!. With Opoe 6SN7 and 1950's Mullard long plate, D getter 12Au7.
Best amp in my system so far.
DIYHiFiSupply LD91 MonoMax SET amp + Noguchi OPT
300B SET monoblocks utilizing an upgraded version of the WE91 circuit using a direct coupled reactive interstage driven by a 5687 triode tube. My version uses a pair of Noguchi FM-24WS output transformers which uses the Hitachi FineMet cores. This is an upgrade over the standard OPT. It's a 300B with more power (in my case about 10W since I use a 5K primary instead of a typical 2.5K primary which gives 16W) but with a more typical 45 SET type sound. So I am able to get something similar to a 45 type sound but with more power than a typical 300B. It's a more liner freq bandwidth than the typical 300B i.e. more bass and treble extension. And the FineMet Cores are really good. My favorite cores for OPTs. The best of both worlds IMHO. I use vintage 1950's WE300B tubes, vintage fine mesh shield WE 310A pentode driver tubes, Tungsol black plate D getter 5987 triode tubes and vintage 1960's WE 274B rectifiers. The tubes cost more than the amps but IMHO add another level of refinement and musicality to the amps. Update: Have switched to the Sophia Royal Princess 300B. This is a really good 300B. For the first time, I found something that I like generally like better than the vintage Pre-1970's WE300B (I don't like post 1970's WE300B anyway). It has much better bass and treble extension but still retains enough of that mid-range magic (though the vintage WE300B's mids are just a bit nicer, more detail and microdynamics). Really pushes this amp up significantly. I have to say that this is now my favorite amp in my collection. Just added the Takatsuki TA-300B tube. Better mids than the Sophia Royal Princess, more layered soundstage and more holographic sound. Slightly less impactful bass and not as forward as the Sophia Royal Princess. I prefer the TA-300B and it is closer to the vintage WE300B than the Royal Princess in the mids and soundstage and microdynamics. And better bass than the vintage WE300B. Have now added EML 300B and this is now my reference 300B for this amp. Sits between the Sophia Electric Royal Princess 300B and the Takatsuki 300B but having the best from both.
Fi 421A SET amp
Made by Don Garber with upgraded components. 4w into 16ohm. Very musical. Quiet, smooth, transparent and great bass for a SET tube amp, with good pace and rhythm. Very easy to enjoy. Replaced my previous U4AB amp as it was better in many ways. Upgraded with Magnequest QS-025 OPTs with pure silver wiring on both primary and secondary coils. Very nice upgrade (and expensive). This now makes my Fi421a a long term keeper.
First Watt SIT-2 amp
This replaced my First Watt F2J amp. Also a single ended FET amp with just 1 gain stage. I like it very much and its an improvement over the F2J. Its a single ended design with no feedback and class A of course. Very detailed but smooth and with good tones. Fast sounding with the best bass yet in my system. Sacrifies just a little lushness and trailing tones for better speed, resolution and bass. In heavy rotation with with Fi 421A SET and 300B amps.
Feastrex D9e - Type 1 Field Coil Speaker
Fullrange 9 inch field coil driver. 16 ohm in a simple reflex box in DIY marine plywood. Natural, very transparent, fast and very dynamic. Great bass and great treble extension (for a single driver). My version has the Urushi lacquered over gold plated phase plug. Now using an updated Feastrex external DC power supply with constant current supply. The new power supply (dual mono in a single chassis) which is an option from Feastrex, makes the speaker more dynamic, faster and more detailed. This new power supply is much better than the standard original Feastrex DC power supply. I use a Taket BATPro Super Tweeter which is enhances the bass and makes it a little more airy. Update: Have since swapped the Taket BATPro super tweeter for a pair of Townshend Maximum Ribbon super tweeters. These are quite a bit better than the Takets. I get better soundstaging, treble seems more integrated with the rest and has a more organic sound. Further updates: The D9e have been reconed by Feastrex in 2012 and upgraded with CW treatment. The whizzer is now slightly smaller in size. The drivers are even more natural sounding and the treble integration is more smoother. Overall, a nice upgrade. Main weakness now is the cabinet. Currently working on upgrading the cabinets. Stay tuned. Aldo, recent conversation with Hal Teramoto (the maker & designer) revealed that my driver has a 1 piece pole-piece construction (only 2 pairs were made like this). The tolerances are tighter with the single unit machined construction. So, maybe my unit is more like a D9e Type 1.1~1.2. LOL
REL R218 subwoofer 2pcs, stereo pair.
Have replaced my previous pair of REL Strata MkIII subs with a pair of REL R218. The R218 seems faster and more dynamic. Set between 36-40hz crossover for my Feastrex D9e speakers. Blends in very well with the main speakers. A stereo pair gives me better soundstage and depth compared to single subwoofer. I use Oyaide Tunami powercords for these subs.
Altmann JISCO Dejitter
DeJitter Device. With 12 volt SLA battery power supply whihc sounds better than the standard wallwart. Works great. Better bass definition and smoother highs. However, now not in use as my modded Flatfish with upgraded clock sounds better without the DeJitter.
Hashimoto Live MC-10 Step-up Transformer
Great moving coil step-up transformer. Better than the Cinemags which was my ex-reference. More detailed, better treble extension, faster and more open soundstage.
Choir Audio Hashimoto HM-7 Step-Up Transformer
The HM-7 is the flagship Hashimoto step up and is quite a bit better than the HM-3. It's the best step-up I have heard.
DIY HiFi Supply Cole LCR phono amp
Cole uses LCR RIAA and tube output. Uses a Telefunken EZ80 rectifier and a pair of Amperex Holland E88CC D getter tubes. Transparent, detailed and musical.
Custom Mod Nagashima U4AB SET amp
A custom built amp of a design that was featured in a Japanese DIY magazine by Nagashima (the editor of that magazine). It uses a U4AB pentode power tube by Pedersen (Danish 1942 built) but wired in triode mode. Its driven by a pentode tube ECL86 which has both half section of a 12AX7 triode and a EL84 pentode built into the tube. 3 watts output and 20 ohm tap. Very natural with good soundstage and depth. More detailed than my previous 300B monoblocks but loses none of the richness, tone, timbre and harmonics of the 300B (DIYHiFiSupply's LD91+ amp).
Tony Wong Custom 6SN7 CCS line preamp
A custom built preamp with a single 6SN7 tube with CCS loading. I prefer this to the TVC passive preamp (silk TVC) in my system as the U4AB power amp needs extra gain to sound at its best. This preamp is fast, transparent, very quiet, smooth, dynamic and musical. I am using Tungsol 6SN7 round black plates tube.
Neumann W444STA line preamp
Vintage Microphone active Fader as used in German Broadcasting industry. It has both input and output transformers and a discrete op-amp giving 15dB of gain. Very smooth fader with a smooth, musical sound. Has a custome made 24Vdc power supply built into the cabinet.
Feastrex D5nf speaker
My first Feastrex. Fullrange alnico driver - 5 inch. Incredible xmax excursion and treble extension with >95db efficiency, 16 ohm. In a hybrid bass reflex/TL box in marine plywood. Natural, transparent, fast and musical. Now used as speakers for my second system and partnered with DIYHiFiSupply Fusion integrated USB DAC amp. I also use a Taket BATPro supertweeter with the speakers to aid in bass and imaging.
Audioquest Leopard tonearm cable
I have several DIN-RCA and DIN-XLR cables. 72V DBS bias. These are now my preferred tonearm cables
Analysis Plus Silver Oval Tonearm Cable
Tonearm cable from Tonearm to phono preamp. DIN-XLR. Neutral and transparent
Silver Breeze Tonearm Cable
All silver DIN-XLR tonearm cable. Fast, neutral and musical.
STEREOLAB Master Reference 818 Digital IC
Great sounding and great value digital cable. Better than my previous Stereovox XV Ultra Reference cable. The XV Ultra was itself better than the previous Stereovox XV2 version which had replaced a Kondo Ks-Lpd digital cable that costs much, much more. Tried also many other digital cables like Harmonic Technology Cyberlink Platinum, Nordost Silver Shadow but the Stereovox was better. Had the earlier HDXV but the newer XV2 is slightly better and the XV Ultra better yet. But the new Stereolab Master Reference 818 was noticeably even better. More details, higher transparency yet remaining smooth and musical.
Antipodes Komako IC MK 2 version
The Antipodes Komako are silver I/C with a little gold and palladium. It sounds musical yet detailed and fast. They have replaced my Kondo Ks-Lp I/C, so highly recommended.
ClearDay Double Shotgun
The ClearDay Double shotgun is all silver. Smooth, musical, good bass extension, wide soundstage. Very happy with it compared to more expensive cables.
ElectraGlide SOTU Power Cord
This replaced my Acrolink P4030 and Oyiade Tunami PCs. It is more detailed, smoother, richer and more dynamic compared to the previous powercords. Really good and good value too but no longer in production. If you find it on the market, highly recommended.
Harmonix X-DC2 Power Cord
Nice power cable. It's very musical, smooth, with good details. It has a slightly golden sound which makes it forgiving but yet detail and fast. I used it for my DAC. The synergy of this cables helps with the digital front end.
Shunyata Python Vx Power Cord
Used for CD transport and field coil power supply. Has noise reducing Fe-Si pellets in the cable. Very musically and quiet cable. Can sound a little compressed on other equipment but ok for my field coil power supply
BPT BP-10.5 Ultra Power Isolation Trans
Upgraded with Oyaide R1 outlets. This really help reduce the power supply noise in my system and was better than my previous custom Isolation Transformer. Apparent immediately was a better defined and weightier bass, larger soundstage and the music also flowed much better. Highly recommended. This BPT replace my previous custom build isolation transformer - 2.5KvA which I found to be better than my previous Shunyata Hydra 8 power conditioner. The custom isolation transformer was more dynamic, faster and a little more transparent than the Hydra 8. The Hydra 8 was more quiet but I found the music flowed better with the custom Isolation Transformer.
PS Audio P500 and P300 Power Regenerators
Finally, I tried a power regenerator. Both units actually converts 230V to 115V which was what I was looking for and I bought it used. It definitely helps reduce noise and the MultiWave is useful and can help improve sound. It's a keeper but wish the fan noise was a little lower.
It's been a while and there have been quite a few new additions to my system. So please be patient as I try to update below.
Digital:
Big changes.
1) I tried the Allnic D5000 DAC. Nice but I then wwnt for the Chord DAVE Dac with the Chird Blu 2 upsaampling CD transport. Big improvement iver ny previous setup. Upsampling to 32/764 is the way to go for me.
2) Have really fallen for Tidal streaming with Roon. Upgrades from Auralic Aries FEMTO to a custom built server by Verastarr. It's a souped up Antipodes DX server with 4TB SSD and external linear power supply and SoTM USB card. And I really like MQA over Tidal. My digital now is closer to analog and much better.
Analog:
1) Upgraded to Koetau Coralstone Diamond Platinum. This is the best so far un my system. Using a AudioNote Kondo KSL Stepup trans into the Wavac LCR-X2 phonostage.
2) My Galibier Gavia is still with me. Undergoing upgrade to latest motir controller with new Kevlar Belt in its way from Thom Mackris. Have a Kuzma 4pt tonearm waiting fir this to be put back together.
3) OTOH, I also bought a Teres Verus Rim Drive Motor for the Galibier Gavia. Once I get some time and set it up, I can then have a shootout between belt versus rim drive. I decided to try the Verus rim drive because I really enjoy the various Garrard 301 TTs I've heard. I wanted a Dobbins 301 TT but could not sell my Galibier Gavia so decided to upgrade instead. Let's see the outcome. Argh! Just need more time.
4) Have not setup my Victor TT-801 yet with the 3 arms (FR66s, MX282, AC4000LTD). Reason is that I do nit have space for 3 TTs on my rack. One day ....
5) In order to accomodate all the tonearma/carts, I bought a secong phonostage: Cyrus Signature Phono. 4 inputs, all independentky adjuatabke gain, resistance and capaitance loading. Up to 72dB gain. Not as goos as the Wavac LCR-X2
Preamp
1) Moved to a Wavac PRT1. Boy this is good. 3D imaging, delicate, detailed, lively. Bug improvement.
Speakers:
Still loving my Feastrex D9e Type 1 field coils. Now with twin Rel R218 subs.
But I now have a Retm Saadhana V3 on its way. Let's see. Exciting times.
Cables.
Big changes.
1) Power cables are almost all Verastarr Silver cables. The power conditioner are Starment HC Gold, the rest are Signature Silvers. Big improvement.
2) Spekaer cables are now Verastarr Silver foils. again a nice upgrade in SQ.
3) Interconnects are now Verastarr silvers. 2 thumbs up.
More interesting thinsg have landed in my system since my last post:
1) Chord DAVE DAC - Brilliant
2) Victor Labs TT801 - PLanning to set this up with 3 arms (Micro Seiki MAX287, Fidelity Research FR66s and Audiocraft AC4000 LTD). Just need to find the time ...
3) Koetsu Coralstone Platinum Cartridge with Diamond Cantiliever
Some new interesting units have landed in my system and waiting for setup and run-in:
1) Allnic D5000 DAC. Finally found something to dethrone my Zanden 5000. Liking it very much. Running it with Auralic Aries vis USB drive.
2) Teres Verus II rim drive motor to convert my Galibier Gavia from belt to rim drive. This should be interesting.
3) Revelation Audio's power cable kit for Wavac LCR-X2 phonostage. A nice upgrade to an already great phonostage. Never thought upgrading the DC power cables can bring such improvements.
Will update the system with pics and comments as time permits.
Galibier holds up well especially with latest speed controller and belt update. Also, the newer big block armboard is better than older swing arm style armboards.
Thks for your comments Devilboy. How do you like tge Synergistic cables? It's one of those that are on my to try list. I see you are on computer audio. Just bought an Aurliac Aries streamer. Very nice sonically. I also have an Auraliti Pk90. Have not updated my system to show the computer audio equipment I have and need to do so because it is certainly the way to go. My system is very eclectic and so may find only a limited audience who appreciates its strenghts versus its weaknesses. No perfect system out there but this one floats my boat and brings great joy to me.
Thanks for your compliments. Yes, I did try the Takatsuki 300B in my Berning amp too. The signatures of the EML and Takatsuki and Sophia RP 300B were similar and evident in the Berning 300B and my other 300B amp.The Berning 300B is very transparent, neutral and fast. o the EML 300B XLS gives the best balance although I am still rolling the driver tubes and there may be combinations of other driver tubes that may favor other 300B tubes. BTW the Mullard 12Au7 D getter CV491 driver tube is a killer in the Berning. Tried many others like RCA, Amperex, Telefunken, Lorenz etc. but that Mullard has the deepest soundstage with holographic imaging and delicate resolution. Never heard a tube have such a great difference in soundstage comparing to others when tube rolling. Usually the difference is in tone/timbre, balance, detail but not much in soundstage, except this time. You keep learning new things in audio. Amazing hobby.
The Fi421a is indeed a very simple SET amp (which are already simple btw) and that's why it will stay in my collection. My F1421a has been upgraded with Silver Magnequest output transformers which are a significant improvement. It has also has Vcap CuTf caps. It is better than my earlier 300B amps and the First Watt SIT-2 and F2J amps. But compared to my current Berning 300B ZOTL, it loses out in terms of detail, resolution and speed. Best way to describe the 421a is that it is a richer, more dynamic sounding 45 SET with more power 4 watts versus 1.5 watt. I think its a good way for 300B lovers who want to try something else but can't go to lower power SETs like 2A3, 45, 205D and 71a.
System edited: Just updated my overall system comments to reflect recent equipment additions such as the SP10mk3, Wavac LCR-X2 and Berning 300B choke loaded SET ZOTL.
Finally, some comments about the Viv Lab Rigid Float arm. I have the 9" version. I initially tried it with my Koetsu Onyx platinum cartridge but this was not a good combination and not surprising as the Koetsu likes a heavy mass tonearm with rigid bearings. I then switched to an Audiocraft AC-03 MC cartridge. Now tis is a very nice combination. Rich mids and great bass response. More importantly, this arm has an ease and liquidity that I have not heard from my other arms. Not sure if it' the damped floating pivot or the straight underhand geometry or both but music just flows, unconstrained with a big smooth and somewhat lush sound plus great presence and palpability. Maybe not as focus as other arms and treble extension may not be the very best. But very enjoyable and I keep going back to the Viv/Audiocraft AC-03 combo. In fact, I like it better than the FR66s/SPU 85th Anv or SPU Gold. And the mids and bass are better than the FR66s/SPU combo (which is well know for its great ids and bass).
Just added a new amp. It's a new version of Berning's famous Siegfried 300B/811 ZOTL amp. Dave likes this better than the original Siegfried 300B. He says it sounds better. This is Serial #3. He only builds on special request. Hence, it is built like a DIY amp and is very simple/DIY looking. Its 300B driven by 6SN7 (2pcs), 12au7 (1pc) and 6au6(2pc) tubes. Stereo single chassis. Its 7 watts into 6 ohm, 6 watts into 4-8 ohm and about 4 watts into 16 ohm. Technically, it's a 300B single ended, Class A, Choke loaded, ZOTL amp. No output transformers. Initial impressions are very good. Sounding very nice. Great tone, smooth, rich, great presence and palpability. Also quite detail with good treble extension. Bass is also strong and tuneful. Not lean sounding like what you would think an OTL might sound. In fact, its sounds very much like my other 300B SET OPT amp but with better detail and resolution. I like it.
I like the EML 300B so much that I just ordered the EML 300B XLS. I hope it's a little better than the standard 300B. Thanks for your advice on the EML 300Bs. It was the inspiration for me to try them out.
System edited: Added Choir Audio HM-7 SUT and Tribute AVC passive preamp. I have had the Tribute AVC for a while but recently took it out and ran it from my phono to amp. I was reminded how good it is and so decided it needs a place in my system list.
Just bought a used pair of EML 300B and tried it on my DIYHiFiSupply LD91+ MonoMax amps. Wow! I like this tube. It is very dynamic, yet sweet and delicate. The Sophia Royal Princess sounds a little darker. The Takatsuki has more air and greater soundstage so the EML 300B sits between the Takatsuki 300B and the Sophia Royal Princess. In terms of bass and dynamics, the EML is closer to the Sophia. But in terms of mids, detail, microdynamics it is closer to the Takatsuki. I guess I should try the EML 300B-XLS now.
Additional correction to the system used in cartridge shootout: Art Audio Carissa 845 amps, AR Ref 5pre, Hagerman Trumpet phonostage + Cinemag Blue SUT, Hagerman Cornet fully modded + Hashimoto HM-7 SUT and Kudos C30 speakers.
Correction to the system used in cartridge shootout: Art Audio Carissa 845 amps, AR Ref 5pre, Hagerman Trumpet phonostage + Cinemag Blue SUT, Hagerman Bugle fully modded + Hashimoto HM-7 SUT and Kudos C30 speakers).
Finally had a chance to do a shootout of some of my MC cartridges. We compared 3 SPU's (Silver Meister GM, Gold GM, Royal GM), Ikeda 9CIII (cantileverless), Fidelity Research FR7fz, Koetsu Onyx Platinum and Koetsu Coralstone Platinum. All cartridges except the Koetsu Coralstone Plt was bought used and hence runned-in. The cartridges were tested on my friend Kel's system (Art Audio Carissa 845 amps, AR LS27 pre, Hagerman Trumpet phonostage + Cinemag Blue SUT, Hagerman Bugle fully modded + Hashimoto HM-7 SUT and Kudos speakers). We used 2 TT's: Garrard 401 with Schick 12" arm and a Garrard 301 with Ikeda IT407 12" arm. Both Garrards have upgraded plinths. Most of the comparison was finally done with the Garrard 301/Ikeda combo. We used different headshells for the Ikeda 9CIII (Ikeda Rhodium headshell/cheap leads), Koetsu Onyx Plt (Yamamoto Ebony/Ortofon Silver leads) and Koetsu Coralstone Plt (Sumiko headshell/Ikeda Hybrid Cu leads). We started with the SPU's. Amongst the 3 SPU, the consensus was that the SPU Gold was the best. It was between the Silver Meister which has more treble extension and the Royal which was the most laid back. The Royal have all the SPU attributes but has detail, refinement, soundstage, smoothness and musicality but more punch and dynamics than the Royal and without some of the leading edge and treble extension of the Silver Meister. Mind you, all 3 had a similar SPU house sound. We then tried the FR7fz which sounded more balance, more PRAT than the SPU's while remaining smooth, warm, detailed and musical. 2 of our group (50%) liked the FR7fz the best. We then tried the Ikeda 9CIII which was very difficult to setup. We initially tried Ikeda's silver headshell leads but could not get one channel to work and finally had to settle for some basic cheap leads (unknown conductor) which did reduce the sonics somewhat. But we did hear what cantileverless brings to the party. A very direct, dynamic, detail, good micro and macrodynamics, very good PART. It does have a similar house sound like the FR7fz. But probably let down by the cheap leads we had to use. All favoured the FR7f over the Ikeda9CIII as a result. But it certainly wetted my appetite to try a higher end and later model Ikeda 9 REX or MUSA. Finally, we tried the Koetsu's. We were not expecting much. We thought we would get good mids but soft bass and treble extension. We tried the Onyx Plt and we were shocked. This is not the typical Koetsu wood body sound. Great dynamic and realistic bass. Kel and I thought it had the best bass of all. Very palpable mids. Seems like the musicians are there in the room. Dynamic, detail, airy and very musical. And mind you, my Koetsu Onyx Plt has a hairline crack on the body. I bought it that way at a low price. This was the only way I could afford a stone body Koetsu (or so I thought). In fact, the sound was so good that I then bought a new Coralstone Plt so that we can put it into the shootout. We then tried the Coralstone Plt. It was even better than the Onyx Plt even though it was brand new. More bass, more dynamics, more musical than the Onyx. And strangely more gain than the Onyx. So it could be something to do with the Onyx's cracked body. We ran it in for a few more days. We did hear some sonic changes in the Koetsu Coralstone as it was running in, so it was obviously performing at its best. I was told by the dealer that it needed about 100 hours of run-in. In the end, we had 2 members prefer the FR7fz and 2 others preferring the Koetsu Coralstone Platinum. Obviously this is not a formal review, not same headsells etc, but just a quick shootout over 3 days to get a flavor of these cartridges. A key take away is that these vintage cartridges SPU Gold, FR7fz and Ikeda 9CIII have a lot to offer and surprised us all. Kel has a DPS turntable/arm with Transfiguration Proteus cartridge as his reference TT. I would say that all the cartridges gave the DPS/Proteus combo a good run for the money. As for me, the Coralstone Platinum is my new reference. Can't wait for it to run-in fully on my FR66s/SP10mk3 combo.
Have been tempted to try the EML tubes for some time. Not sure if I should go with EML's regular 300B mesh or the XLS version. My 300B amps uses the Yamamoto Teflon sockets and I have been told that the EML's have bigger pins and might not fit. Can you compare the pins of the EMLs with your other 300B and let me know if they are indeed bigger? Can you also provide ore details of your EML versus the TA-300B and the Sophia RP please.
System edited: New additions. Takatsuki TA-300B tubes. And a Transfiguration Proteus cartridge. And my Galibier Gavia now has the updated motor and controller and new fabric belt. Details of new components added to the write-ups of the units. Ahh...so much new things to try to blend in. The journey continues...
Field coil PSU makes a significant difference to the performance. Its like a different driver. I have gone through various generations of Feastrex's field coil PSUs and they make a significant difference to the sound. And it can be also subjective. To me the constant current makes sense because it can help fight the back EMF generated from the voice coil magnetic field moving inside the field coil. The difference between the constant voltage (CV) and constant current(CC) is that the CC sounds more dynamic with better freq extremes especially bass. In fact it sounds like the CC is more push-pull amp and the CV is more SET like (more focused on mids). Anyway, do upgrade from switching more to a linear, mode power supplies. How much voltage does your field coil need? The modern ones are around 12V (like Feastrex) but the vintage Jensen's need 200+V.
I use a Feastrex FC PSU. They have/had several versions. Mine us a second generation constant current version. They have gone to a 3rd generation all transformer version lately. FC PSU are very much dependent on your speaker drivers. I do have a Maxonic FC PSU. It was tried on my friend's Feastrex but it seems the compatability eith Feastrex is not as good. Hope this helps.
I have not experimented much with the AC cords for the power supply. When I did try a few, there did not seem to be much impact. But I finally settled on using a Shunyata Python VX cord since I already had it. The Vx had the ferrite beads in the cord to reduce noise and I thought have a quite cable would probably help the PSU. I previously used the Shunyata Python Vx as the main cord to my main conditioner but found that while it was good it can dampen the dynamics a little. So moving it to just the filed coil PZU made sense. My filed coil PSU puts out between 10-15V only so its not a heavy power consumer. Hope this helps
I will post pics once I get my TT's setup on the rack. But I am liking the sound compared to previous Solid Steel rack. Sound seems more organic and lively.
Just upgraded my audio racks to a extra wide Timbernation 4 layer 2" maple rack. Sounding more lively and organic now. Also added a Viv Audio Rigid Floating arm (9"). Have yet yo setup the arm but from my demo, I really liked it. Very organic, lively, rich and great soundstage and imaging.
Thanks for the list. I have heard the Ocellia's. Nice speakers. Just a little too warm and slow compared to my Feastrex. BTW, there are 2 Feastrex for sale on AudiogoN, a 9" field coil and the 5" Monster Alnico. IMHO, if speakers use crossovers, they are less likely to be a good match for SET amps. You are not really getting the most out of the SET amps. It robs them of efficiency and therefore life. Its also important to match the impedance of the speaker with the OPTs. And for you 300B lovers out there, do listen to good 2A3 and 45 SET amps. There is more to SET's than just 300B. And when you are done with that, try some 71A and 205D. Magic but you will need speakers with over 100dB. For me the 300B is the highest power tube I will go to. Have tried 211, 845, 6C33C and G70 etc but while these are more dynamic, they loose some of the micro details, sweetness and immediacy (in general). If you stick with HE speakers you won't need more than 300B's anyway. Enjoy your system and music. Cheers
Thanks for your comments. Glad that you have finally discovered SET amps. I had used ElectroVoice EV12TRX tri-axial drivers before and there also worked wonderfully with SET amps. I love the fact that the SET amps drive us towards high efficiency speakers which then leads to the fast, dynamic, natural sound. But it can also be maddening because there are so few commercial high efficiency speakers and one is drive to DIY or custom make speakers. But, I guess that's the passion. Enjoy your system.
Sorry for late reply but I have been "off the boil" on Audiogon for some time. Yes, I am still using SET amps. I like the SIT-2. They are better than the First Watt F2J I had before. They are fast, good tone and have great bass but ultimately, they fall just slightly short of the immediacy and air of very good SET's like my 300B's. I like the SIT-2 over my Fi 421a but I like my LD91 MonoMax with Sophia Process 300B just a little better. At this time, I am keeping all 3 amps. The Fi 421a are on the lush side, warm side while the SIT-2 are more on the cleaner, transparent side with the LD91 MonoMax in the middle. Hope this helps. Now, with that said, I am using a solid state preamp (JR 3160). I have read that the SIT-2 prefers a tube preamp and that makes sense. I have yet to try the SIT-2 with my 6SN7 custom preamp. That could change my preference
System edited: In addition to the previous post, I have also updated my system list: 1) Cartridges - used Koetsu Onyx Platinum and Ikeda 9CIII MC cartridges 2) Tonearms - Fidelity Research FR66s reiwred with all silver Ikeda wiring and Durand Talea II with Purist wiring 3) Technics SP10mk3 with Porter Plinth. Restored and upgraded by Music Technology's Bill Thalmann with the "Richard Kerbs" mods 4) Isoclean power conditioner 80A3
I see that you like the Takatsuki 300b. How much are these and where do you buy them? I am tying a pair of Sophia Royal Princess now. It has better bass and dynamics than my NOS WE 300b but do lack that midrange magic. Would like to try the Takatsuki's. I see you also have the BPT power conditioner. Do you like it?
1) The First Watt F2J is being traded in for a First Watt SIT-2. Looking forward to hearing what this single ended JFET will bring. It will have more power at 10w compared o the F2J.
2) The 421a is bring upgraded with an all silver Magnequest QS-025 OPT. This output trans cost almost as much as the amp. Will also upgrade the VCap to CuTF from TF.
3) The Feastrex D9e Type 1 drivers are also being upgraded to the atest version with CW treatment. This would take. Bit of time so I am without speakers till it comes back from Japan.
4) The Galiber Gavia TT has the latest solid block armboard which is cut for the Durand Talea II arm which I also acquired. Waiting on the plinth to be recut to allow dual arm while using the new heavy block armboard and another older style swing armboard.
5) The Technics SP10mk3 has Judy come back from being upgraded ith the "Richard Kerbs" mods. Have yet to set it up.
6) Finally, purchased 2 Arche fully adjustable headshells from Dertonarm. These will be used for the FR66s and MAX282 J tonearms.
Sorry for late reply. Just saw your message. The Feastrex D9 Type 2 are a little better than my version which is a type 1. This is due to the premendur pole piece. It gives more details and probbaly higher efficiency. I have heard the Type 2 and also Type 3. The type 2 will have better detail and resolution in the treble and it gets better as it moves up the chain. The thing to be careful is that the Type 2 can be merciless if the recording is bad or the system is mismatch. It just lays everything bare, and the speed and detail from the treble can make it sound hot, especially if the system is mismatched. And of course, you need to have the bass to match. Those who go with box designs need to be careful to get enough bass (the Feastrex box designs are the most succesful so far) otherwise the sound can be lean. Since you are going with OB and a subwoofer, then its less of an issue but you do need a good and fast sub. I have no experience with the Torus but I use 2 REL Strata III and it works well in my system. I tend to prefer the REL approach which is to use the power amps to connect to the subs rather than the preamplifier. And the REL's load the room rather than fire directly at the listener, so its easier to integrate. I started with one sub and ended with 2. My experience is that getting 2 stereo subs is the way to go. You may need 2 subs anyway since your design is OB and you probably needs the subs to come in around 80HZ or higher and so a stereo pair of subs is needed. I find the 9inch Feastrex mids and highs to be great. Its true most people prefer the field coil 5inch which has arguably better uppermids and highs compared to the 9inch. But its also mostly because the 5" is much cheaper and easier to integrate into a cabinet. But I can also say that the highest resolution and detail I have heard in the Feastrex range comes from the Type 2 and Type 3 Feastrex 9" fieldcoils. So, in your case, I don't think you give up anything to the 5" fieldcoil in terms of mids and treble. I also find the 5" to be less dynamic and ultimately limited in scale and loudness. I could drive the 5 inch to clip but I have not been able to drive the 9inch to clip. So, if you have a bigger room and the $$, the 9" gets my vote especially since you are getting the type 2. You may note I also use a supertweeter but I only choose those that range from 18-19KHz and above. I cannot hear any output from these even with my ears next to them but they do improve the bass, adds air/life and imaging benefits. Try it too! And its important to note that if you use a tube amp, it is best if it has a speaker impedance of at least 16ohm. In fact, the ideal speaker output impedance is 22 ohm DC. But that would mean a custom Output Transformer so 16 ohm is the minumum in order to be optimize. What amps are you planning to use? Also which field coil power supply are you intending to use. the Feastrex one is good. Make sure you get a couple of Degawa diodes to be used (one each) at the speaker terminals. They help to reduce back EMF from the field coils. Finally, congrats if you do decide to buy the Feastrex. Not many users out there, especially D9. I have a pretty good group of Feastrex users here and my local dealer/distributor is probably the most experience dealer outside of Feastrex Japan. I am also close with Haruhiko Teramoto, the builder and designer and have visited him several times. So, if you need any help, please feel free to call on me.
System edited: Added a second REL Strata MkIII subwoofer. So, now running my subs in a stereo pari. I get better soundstage and depth. I can now say that having dual subs is a good thing.
Thanks for your kind comments. I like your system too. Its simple but with all the "right" components. I have always wanted to try Coincidnet speakers because of their high efficiency and compatability to low powered SET DHT amps but was never able to find a dealer near to me. You should try the pre-1970 WE 300B tubes in your amp.
System edited: Upgraded the super tweeters from the Taket BATPro to Townshend Maximum Ribbon Super tweeters (used pair bought in AudiogoN). These are a good upgrade. The high frequenices seem better integrated to the music. I get better imaging and the treble seems to be meatier and more organic rather than just airy with the Taker. Highly recommended.
Thanks for your comments. It seems from you system that we are generally headed in the same direction as far as pursuing sounds i.e. SET tube amps and single drivers. You can read my comments about the Feastrexs and I have 2 different models - the cheapest and the big field coils and I like them both very much. I have also heard the top of the range drivers at the Feastrex factory too. Awesome! Can you buy "better" speakers for the money...I would think so. But if you like single drivers, then these are the ones to go for. All the benefits of single drivers with none of the nasties and simple cabinets are enough to get good and extended bass from them. The model that is the best value of the bunch, IMHO and most other Feastrex lovers, is the cheapest 5" field coil - NF5ex. You are welcomed to come listen to my system if you are in the neighborhood.
I have not heard the Ortofon A90 or the Denon DL1000A so I cannot compare the FR-7f to them. I can only compare it to the MM's I have and it is competitive. Maybe not as neutral or transparent but very musical. Perhaps Raul will be able to give better feedback. And it was Raul who lead me to the FR-7f anyway.
System edited: Updated: Just added in pictures and description of new 300B amp, DIYHiFiSupply's LD91 MonoMax. Another amp in heavy rotation but seems to be pulling ahead at this time. Also added in my collection of cartridges. Not to show off, but I really needed to keep a list of them somewhere (getting my senior moments) so why not here.
My sample already has the VdH refresh. I bought it from Raul. Will post my impressions once I have it up and running. Just recently tried a Fidelity Research FR-7F cartrdige also. Very nice. Its like a tube version of the Technics EPC-P100C Mk4. Very smooth and lusher sounding giving up very slightly on PRAT and resolution but the best MC I have tried so far.
Thanks. Its been a long time coming with my upgrade to the Gavia platter. I heard the difference in a demo at Thom's place before I bought my Gavia TT but at that time was constraint by finances to include only the Serac platter. Thom helped by putting in the graphite TPI platter on my Serac platter which reduced the sonic gap a little between the Serac and Gavia platters but even then I heard quite a difference. So looking forward to better music now.
Thank you. I see you are also a SET lover. There is something special about low power single ended designs and fullrange drivers. Sound is more organic, natural and engaging to my ears and I believe yours too!
System edited: Upgraded. Turntable platter upgraded to a Gavia platter whihc is the next platter up the chain from Galibier. This is a 33lb platter compared to the previous 14lb PVC Serac platter. The Gavia platter has holes underneath with screws and nuts bolted to the underside to give it damping. Now under evalutaion. In addition, just receievd the AKG P100LE MM cartridge which has been getting rave reviews on AudiogoN. there is a review in AudiogoN but just now running it in and will report back findinds later. Finally, just added the DiyHiFiSupply's LD91 MonoMAX 300B monoblock amplifiers. My version uses Noguchi FM24W OPTs. Initial listening is very positive and now running it it. This is a 300B that sounds like a "45 tube sound" with lots more power (11-12Watts into my 16ohm Feastrex). So lots of changes and will have to let things brew for a bit before I can add more comments.
Thanks for your comments. I am also waiting for an AKG P100LE to show up which should give the Technics EPC-P100CMkIV a run for its money. I have tried and liked the Denon DL-S1 but sold it at that time because it was a high compliance cartridge and had very low output 0.15mv. I did not quite have a suitabel arm or phonostage at that time. Do you think the DL-S1 is clsoe to the DL1000A?
System edited: Have added quite a bit to the system since the Essemtial 3160 PhonoPreamp. The 3160 gave me much better transparency and now I do not need step-ups and has also forced me to rethink my amps. I don't think I am done with my amps yet but currently have the Fi 421a SET amp and the First Watt F2J SET amp in heavy rotation. Although one is a triode amp and the other a solid state JFET, they both offer what I like about SET amps, the immediacy and natural tones. I am also happily trying vintage MM cartridges (thanks to Raul Ruegas) and the Technics EPC-P100C MkIV is a winner which has caused me to sell my Dynavector XX2 MkII. Shows the value of such vintage MM cartrdiges which cost hundreds only but better than MC cartridges costing $2K. Also now trying vintage MC cartridges like the FR PMC3, AudioCraft AC-03 and FR-7f. These cartridges have caused me to bring in the AudioCraft AC4000 Limited (Silver Finish) arm with 3 armwands from Medium to Light. I really like this unipivot as it is easy to adjust azimuth. Sounds good and very flexible with the interchangeable armwands. Onwards and upwards!
System edited: Just added in the J&R Essential 3160 PhonoPreAmp from Raul Ruegas. Initial listening reveals improvements in refinement and detail plus excellent soundstage (especailly depth). Looking forward to further listening and run-in.
I have been busy and have not checked this thread and just saw your post. I am glad you like the Feastrex's. To me they are the best full-range drivers out there. And I have visited the Feastrex workshop 3-4 times and have heard all the various models they have. My favourite is the D9e. By the way, where are you located? Maybe you can pop over to listen. Send me an email.
System edited: Had the 47 Labs FlatFish Transport upgrdaed with a imporved clock and components by Brian Charney. Brian really knows the 47 Labs equipment. Digital Source is now up a notch in sound.
System edited: Updated - added BPT BP-10.5 Ultra isolation transformer and a Charney Battery PSU for my Flatfish CD transport. See details on the components. Changes imporved sound significantly.
System edited: Added new Step-up trans and updated the thread with all the cables being used. The new Hashimoto Live MC-10 step-up brings the system up a notch. The cables have gone down in price (s0ld the Kondo's) but improved the sound of the system. Sometimes, less is more...
Jigstersg, both my D5nf and D9 were NOT built by Robert and followed recommended box designs from Feastrex. As for demo of D9, I think Robert was referring to the setup by the local distributor but I welcome you to drop by and listen to mine if you are interested. If you compare the Feastrex to other typical DIY speakers like Fosteks etc, you could say that they are very expensive. But if you compare the Feastrex to commercial systems, I think you will find that they can outperform systems that cost 4-5 times their total price. But in the end, if you like fullrange drivers, I think you will find that they have very few competition and I am referring to the top end Lowthers, Phy-Hp, AER, Fertin, Supravox etc.
The amp was built by AHFartaudio. I bought a custom U4AB amp from Japan (which was featued in a Jap DIY magazine)and liked it but wanted to improve it. So I gave the schematic, some parts to Robert and had him built it up. Robert did a great job and it sounds great too. It has a very organic and natural sound especially in the mids and treble that makes it sound so realistic. When Robert was running it in his shop with the D5nf, he had lots of good comments from other customers who heard it there.
Sorry for late reply but have been very busy with work (and the lousy economy) lately. Yes, I would say that the Altmann DeJitter would help in your case. It does make the sound smoother and more effortless and seems to give more impacdt to the bass. For anti-Jitter, I was considering either the Altmann or the Apogge Big Ben. But the Big Ben is more expensive and while there are good recommendations for the Big Ben on the web, there was also a few not so great ones. Have not seen any bad reviews of the Altmann.
Power Amp upgraded. SAme design but new built with better components and chassis. even more transparent with a very special 3D holographic soundstaging. Hard to described but all who have heard it like it - very orgranic, natural and live souding. Also added more pix of the system.
System edited: Wow! System has gone through many changes - New Turntable (Galibier Gavia), new cartridge (Dynavector XX2 mk II), new preamp and poweramp and the most significant change of all - new speakers (Feastrex D9e Field Coil). Being a single driver fan and finally getting a field coil driver is like reaching nirvana. I can say that the extra $$ and effort for the field coil is well worth it. My journey has been kicked into another gear. The Galibier Gavia turntable is also significant as it now gives me a very capable analog source that is revealing new insights and enjoyment. The pre and power amps are both custom built and intriguing. I am using very old and unusual tubes but getting very good sounds. Overall, I am into my next phase in my audio journey and loving it.
System edited: Added Neumann W444STA preamp. This is a vintage microphone active fader. Discovered via my Japanee audiophile contacts who are fanatical about vintage German broadcasting/studio equipment (Telefunken V76 microphone amps, EMT 928/930/950 TTs etc). It gives up a bit of refinement/transparency and air/spaciousness compared to my Django TVC but adds better tone, weight/body. It also gives me some gain when I play some CD's/LP's with low recorded volume. YOu can find these failry cheap on eBay. Tremendous value. Add a 24VDC power supply and off you go.
System edited: Just swap the Golden Sound Ultra tweeter for the Taket Bat1 super tweeter. This is something I found in recent trip to Jpan. Its a very interesting product, piezo ribbon operating on the Heil principal. Said to go from 20-150Khz. Does not need a crossover. Compared to the Golden Sound tweeter, the Taket Bat1 gives a much wider and deeper soundstage. It does the same as the Golden Sounds in terms of tone improvements and adding weight to bass, more focus on treble etc. And its quite a bit cheaper. Highly recommended. The company Taket has a more expensive "Taket Bat Pro" super tweeter with adjustable efficiency and crossover roll-off. Also their piezo ribbon headphone have been getting rave review (as possible the best) in the headphone audiophile community. Here i the link: http://taket.jp/japanese/j.html.
The cabs are built for me by a local DIYer. We used 3/4" Marine Plywood (best plywood we could find in Singapore). It has a real wood Maple veneer put on. Up close, you can see its a DIY build but from far it looks good enough.
My EV12TRXB cabinets are 52" tall TWQT box. Use the Martin King Mathcad software to calculate for an Fo=35Hz. Built with 3/4" Marine plywood. Actually I think the 12TRXB work quite nicely in simple bass reflex also because of the high qts. I have heard them in open baffle and they sound fine with suprisingly low bass (down to about 60Hz in OB). Thats why the vintage EV boxes are bass reflex. I think they will do well in your RCA LS-1 cabs.
System edited: Just added the Golden Sound Ultra Tweeter. This is a super tweeter that supposedly operates in freq > 100KhZ. The Featres D5nf drivers do not need a super tweeter as the high freq are extended but the ultra tweeters actually add weight to the mid bass, sweetens the mids and focusses the treble without adding energy to the top end. You can't hear any output at all from the device but it does make a difference especially the bass which is surprising. A worthwhile upgrade.
Thank you. Yes, I move the chairs and side table aside for serious listening and drop the drapes behind. For casual listening, the drivers are high enough that its okay.