Description

In a combined stereo and AV system, the McIntosh XRT-20’s are powered by my entry-level Sony AV receiver STR-AN1000 which bested my McIntosh MC252 power amps even when they were bridged to mono (although the transients arguably had more bite with the Mac amps). I’m still using a Schiit Freya as the preamp for my phono stage located in the next room (on balanced connectors), the analog output of the Oppo when playing SACDs (also balanced connections), the Marantz 150 tuner, and the cassette deck that plays the few odd tapes I have from a previous era. I need the Freya mostly because I mistook the auxiliary inputs on the Sony for preamp outputs, but it does allow me to make use of the McIntosh MQ107 room equalizer to boost the bass of the two drivers in each cabinet. 

The system is installed in the main ‘sitting room’ of my home. The house is a split-level, so, with the speakers on southern exterior wall, behind the couch facing them 12 ft away, is the stair well which both comes up from the front door and down to the base floor (concrete pad). The stairwell is 7 ft deep, so the main seating will be about 2/3rds of the way back into the room. There is about a 3 ft landing at the top of the stairs, and a hallway extending back to the northern side of the house (front door faces East). Right next to the main sitting room is the dining room (10 ft W x 19 ft D) with a 6 ft wide opening between the 15’D x 29’D sitting room. There is a 6 ft wide picture window on the east side of sitting room. I imagine I’ll need to do significant room treatment for this space, since the wall I have chosen is the only place in the house that can accept them. Note: When I installed the XRT20s I discovered that the mirror was off-center by about 3 inches. 
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Room Details

Dimensions: 19’ × 15’  Medium
Ceiling: 8’


Components Toggle details

    • McIntosh XRT-20
    I got a great deal on a pristine pair of McIntosh XRT20 Isoplanar Loudspeaker System. I am the second (proud) owner. If you’ve never heard of them (I hadn’t), they are reported to be an awesome speaker. 
    As far as their condition goes, the finish was nearly flawless when I picked them up. One cabinet received minor damage on the three hour+ trip home. I’ve replaced the original, tiny and rather weak, spring clip terminals with some equally cheap 5-Way binding posts that accept up to 10 AWG wire (not much room to work with). I have  also replaced the three non-polarized AC motor run electrolytic caps on each of the crossover boards. These XRT-20s are a later unit with crossover points at 20 to 100 Hz (from downloaded owners manual) or to 150 Hz (from Roger Russell’s Design Notes from his History #2 site) for the lower woofer, 20 to 250 Hz for the upper woofer, and 250 to 1.5kHz for midrange, with the towers handling what was left. They are equipped with warning lights and fuses. I may replace the fuses with MOVs or whatever the designer used (and recommends) for his next iteration. Both the tweeter and bass cabinets have a trapezoidal shape to promote an awesomely wide sweet spot, but the speakers are not so great on imaging (in fact they’re awful). The bass, without the subwoofer, is simply out-of-this-world. They pass the LEDR test with flying colors, clear, defined bass from low to upper without a sag or bump anywhere. I find that the system performs better with the bass cabinet, or ‘credenza’, pushed close to the tweeter tower, although it can be placed up to 8” away, the spacing introduces a noticeable dip the LEDR vertical step test. These speakers were top-of-the-line in 1978 when they came out, and proved the designer’s concept of line arrays in the home (although he ditched the bass cabinets later in life). They were still pretty hot stuff when the original owner bought them in 1992. Folks report that they sound ‘big’ before they sound ‘loud.’ As I related in a post to the forum, the XRT-20’s have a very different sound to my system downstairs. I wondered what had happened to the sound stage I was used to hearing downstairs. With the tweeter towers screwed to the walls at the manufacturer’s recommended 1/3 intervals, the head must be precisely placed between the speakers to get the full stereo effect. The system can easily fill the upstairs space with sound without consuming more than 10-15 Watts, although my son has pushed it harder. Too much volume tends to cause the stuff I place on top of the credenzas to move around and sometimes fall off. 

    From the specifications in the Owner’s Manual:
    Speaker
    Woofers, two: 12" (30.5 cm) diameter;
    Mid-range, one: 8" (20.3 cm) diameter;
    Tweeters, twenty-four: 1" (2.54 cm) diameter

    Cabinet Size
    Bass Section: 39-9/16" (100.5 cm) high, 25-7/8" (65.7 cm) wide, and 12-7/8" (32.7 cm) deep.
    High Frequency Section: 77-1/8" (195.9 cm) high, 10-3/4" (27.3 cm) wide, and 11-3/16" (4.6 cm) deep.

    Construction
    The cabinet is constructed of 45 pound density particle board with hardwood bracing. The exterior is genuine walnet veneer with laquer finish.
    The high frequency column is constructed of aluminum extrusions finished with genuine walnut veneer and solid wood end caps.

    System Weight
    170 lbs (77.1 kg)

    Shipping Weight
    192 lbs. (87.1 kg)

    The weight given is for a ‘system’ consisting of (2) bass cabinets, and (2) tweeter towers which each come in two pieces, for a total of three pieces per speaker. Surprisingly light, given their size. 
    • Schiit Audio Freya+
    Preamp, either passive, buffered output (using FETs, I believe), or tubes on the output. I like to run in the buffered mode, but may turn on the tubes for a recording or change of pace. Two of five inputs are balanced; one of three outputs is balanced. The disk player currently occupies balanced input one.
    • Oppo BDP-105D
    BlueRay (and universal) Disk Player with Darby video optimization, capable of playing SACDs, has digital inputs and a network port. I have only just started using it for disk playback. It will output CD-ROMs digitally, but SACDs go out analog through either balanced or unbalanced connections. I’m currently using the balanced connections from the Oppo to the Freya, but that means I have to turn the HDMI off between the Oppo and the TV. The TV doesn’t seem to want to use the audio via HDMI; I suppose I could run the optical cable from the TV into the Oppo; then the signal would travel from the TV to the Oppo to either the Receiver via HDMI, or to the Freya via the balanced analog outputs from the Freya. Home Theater setup gives me a headache every time.
    • Samsung UNF49
    49” flat panel television HDMI 1.4, audio out over optical Toslink SODIF
    • Auralic Aries
    A ‘network bridge’ which allows one to stream off the internet, either via cable or wirelessly, into a DAC of your choosing. I find the sound quality to be excellent, although the product has undergone a few iterations since its introduction.
    • Marantz 150
    AM / FM Tuner with oscilloscope diagnostic / indicator
    Looks great, but not a very good tuner, as tuners go. Every other tuner in my possession, home and auto, works better than this one. It probably needs some work. 
    • Sony TC-W41
    Two-tape cassette deck.
    • Elac PPA-2
    Solid state phono stage with balanced connectors on both input and output, potentiomter-tuned loading.
    • Music Hall MMF-5.3
    Belt drive turntable, carbon-fiber tone arm, no head shell
    • McIntosh MQ-107
    Room equalizer which uses capacitors and potentiometers to adjust frequency response and signal amplitude on left and right channels independently. Right now I’m only using it to boost the bass when the signal is coming from the Freya preamp, as per McIntosh instruction manual. Tuning the room is something I would like to do in the future, but right now I’m letting Sony AV receiver handle those duties. I would only need the room tuning  when I’m in ‘Pure Direct’ mode in which the subwoofer, center, and ‘height’ speakers are not being driven.
    • Pangea Vulcan Racks
    User Configurable Audio Racks which I found ways modifying to suit my purpose. 
    1. I added two inches to one shelf’s height by using a ‘spacer’ created from Schedule 40 PVC pipe and some flat black paint augmented by some all-thread and appropriately sized boat washers. This action was taken in order to accommodate the rather heavy and fairly tall McIntosh MC252 amps (95 lbs each) when they were part of the system. 
    2. I modified the heavy duty one-shelf amp stands to accept the super-structure of two-shelf component stand (the amp stand is at least two inches deeper than the component shelving). Again, 5/16” x 18 all-thread, bolts, and the right-sized fender washers did the trick. 
    3. I wound up modifying my existing heirloom TV stand (inherited from my mother, rest her soul) by similar means to raise its height to match, but I couldn’t disguise the PVC straight legs on a distressed lathe-turned frame. 

Comments 3

Owner
@100boardwalk Yes, I’m still enjoying my XRT-20’s, especially their deep, rich bass. I’ve only had mine for two years or so, but I am only the second owner. They don’t image especially well, but they do manage to fill the room (and the whole upstairs) with sound. I listen to them everyday.

oldrooney

Just wanted to give a shout out to another XRT20 owner. Are you still enjoying them? How long have you had them? i've had mine since 1987. Cheers!

100boardwalk

Looking forward to seeing photos of your complete system posted here.

mjcmt

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